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Lichet or Leave It

5.10, Trad, 4 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Broken Rock
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Description

This is the farthest left of routes facing the creek. Clint Casey led me up this on June 29, 2016. Because he hasn't posted this route, I am doing so.

Climb a short, horrendously lichened, right-leaning, right-facing dihedral, and surmount the end of the overhang (5.10). Continue up discontinuous cracks in the horrendously lichened slab. To enable communication and reduce rope drag, belay at the small tree.

Pitch two is also short and diagonals right to the base of the undercling, which is on the Undercling route.

Pitch three climbs the Undercling (5.10, unless you are TALL). To facilitate communication and to reduce rope drag, belay as soon as possible. An easy, low angle pitch takes you to the big ledge/platform that traverses underneath the Overlook.

Walk southeast, then west, down to the creek.

Location

From the road, walk up through the woods a short distance to the base of the route, which is the left-most on Broken Rock.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Clint Casey turns the lip of the overhang on Lichet or Leave It, June 29, 2016.
[Hide Photo] Clint Casey turns the lip of the overhang on Lichet or Leave It, June 29, 2016.
Clint Casey leads the possible first ascent of Lichet or Leave It, June 29, 2016. From this perspective, the severely rightward lean of the dihedral isn't evident.
[Hide Photo] Clint Casey leads the possible first ascent of Lichet or Leave It, June 29, 2016. From this perspective, the severely rightward lean of the dihedral isn't evident.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
[Hide Comment] Pretty good movement and overall climbing. Would be 2* if it was aggressively brushed.

Anchor on ledge above can be built with the tree and a few red Aliens or #0.5 Camalots.

Not a good lead for beginner trad climbers, as some gear is placed blindly and the crack has some loose or flaring spots under the roof.

Best finished by continuing on to P2 of Undercling. Jul 4, 2020