Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Luke Negley and Van Negley
Page Views: 432 total · 16/month
Shared By: Luke Negley on Sep 17, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The route begins towards the left side of the rock face and follows a series of cracks up until it flattens out after the first pitch. Continue going up and to the right, and you will eventually hit the start of another wall. From here, follow the ridge up until you hit the summit.

Location

Head up Blodgett Trail until you come to a small stream. Go right across the stream, and continue on the trail until you can see a large boulderfield. Cross the boulderfield, and head up to the base of the rock face.

There is a tree protruding out of the wall sideways to mark the start of the route.

To get down, follow the trail off the top and back down around the mountain.

Protection

A full rack of nuts and Friends/cams. There are no anchors, fixed gear, or bolts.

Photos

Alex Hesler
Hollywood, FL
 
Alex Hesler   Hollywood, FL
 
We missed the tree growing sideways at the start, so we must've been a bit off route. Our beta for this was as follows:

P1. Headed left along the base and scrambled up to a couple cracks below a tree on the obvious large ledge above. Climbed up and quickly right into a short and loose dihedral. Easy climbing led to a small ledge below the tree with a few options. I climbed a clean layback corner with some stemming to the left hidden slightly by a small bush (5.6?) that was a perfect place for 0.75 which spit us out at the tree.

We soloed up a short face behind the tree to another large ledge. Left seemed to be a walk off option already, but following the beta and heading right took us to another short and very loose corner. We carefully soloed a couple moves up, then right onto bomber rock on an exposed arete. We followed the exposure up to the top of the ridgeline, soloing short but fun aretes and corners all of which seemed no harder than 5.4.

A word of caution: this variation was VERY loose and crumbly in places (although rock thats good tends to generally be of excellent quality). Twice on my buddy's lead he trundled terrifying blocks down over me. A bit frustrated, I set off only to knock down a few more good-size blocks on my go. The dihedrals on the 1st pitch and above the tree are the worst of it. Also soloed directly beside a giant loose and balancing tombstone of granite. It is cleaning up a bit from what I can tell, but there is still plenty more to sneak past on future ascents. Try to belay out of the fall zone, climb delicately, and WEAR A HELMET! Beginner parties may want to stay roped up for the ridge above the tree.

I'd give it only one star if it weren't for the beautiful place it's in and the views. Still, lots of good rock as well and probably the most fun way to the top of Blodgett. Bring a light rack, and don't be fooled by the false summits. Keep going for the 360 views! There are definitely many variations up this formation to choose from. Aug 30, 2018