Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 828 total · 30/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Sep 17, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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The East Ridge of Dorado Needle is a pleasurable climb up a unique spire in a wild location. A bit more challenging and lengthy than the NW Ridge of Dorado needle but easier than the SW Buttress.

Any way you slice it, make your way towards the col between Pt. 8386 and Dorado Needle (~7,600'). The route can be started directly on the East Ridge at this col. This will add roughly 400' of mid-to-low 5th class climbing to where Beckey indicated the start of the route.

Right off the col there are some steep, fun and exposed mid-5th class moves. Continue for another 300' or so over varying terrain to a point where one can step off back onto the Mcallister Glacier.

Once you've stepped back onto the glacier, climb a pitch of moderately steep snow to two quartz bands. Gain the rock again at these two horizontal quartz bands and continue up low-5th class terrain to a sub-summit.

From the sub-summit make two rappels into a notch. This should be fairly obvious to negotiate.

Out of the notch, climb a few really, really good pitches of 5.7 crack climbing. After the angle and difficulty eases, continue over low-5th class terrain to the summit of Dorado Needle.

To descend down climb and/or rappel sections of the NW Ridge. It could be possible, in particular conditions, to shorten this descent by rappelling north onto the Mcallister Glacier once gaining an anchor below the summit of Dorado Needle. Be cautious of the conditions of the moat before taking this short cut. None the less, continue rappelling/down climbing to the obvious col on the NW Ridge to gain the Mcallister Glacier.


Start at the Col between Pt. 8386 and Dorado Needle. Follow the East Ridge more or less to the summit of Dorado Needle. Make a few rappels along the way.


Single Rack to 3" & Single 60m. Axe and crampons for approach.