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Routes in Capulet Side Canyon

Anklebiter T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Castor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chemo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dizygotic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Drum Major T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Futuristic T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gong Show T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gordita T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holy Grail, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Juliet T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jump the Shark T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mercutio T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monozygotic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pollux T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Romeo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Skintight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Toad Licker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trigger Finger T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
WTFWJD T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wormdrive T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Josh Smith
Page Views: 54 total, 4/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on Sep 16, 2016
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

The top half of this route is amazing, but the bottom is both easy and only ok. There are two main cracks about the fifteen feet right of Anklebiter. The left of the cracks is offwidth and heads up towards the obvious finger crack on the upper face. It's got quite a bit of dirt in it and is not the recommended start, even though it's direct. The right crack heads straight up to the big chimney. It's clean and about 5.7 and is the best way to get to the finger crack. It terminates on a pillar just below the chimney. Climb the 5.7, slinging any pieces long so that the rope runs outside of the crack. From the top of the pillar, reach left and place an 0.5 Alien in the finger crack on the face--a #5 will protect this move. Step left into the pod at the start of the fingers and then pull!

The fingers to the thin hands above is well worth the shenanigans required to get to the finger crack above. It protects well and is super fun locker fingers with very minimal feet.

Location

About fifteen feet right of Anklebiter. Look for the crack that splits the face and then wraps right into the chimney.

Protection

3 each #0.4-0.5, 2 each #1, 1 each #2. Maybe take a 3 and a 5 for the bottom half of the route.

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