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Routes in Yellow Wall & Hopeless Buttress

Sunset Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Corporal Christie (1956)
Page Views: 155 total, 10/month
Shared By: James K Haugen on Sep 15, 2016
Admins: Brian Boyd, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

British Grade: S 4b

Pitch 1 (25 m) 3a – Climb easily through the slabs and bugling walls beneath the Yellow Wall to a prominent corner.
Pitch 2 (23 m) 4a – Follow the corner system until forced rightwards onto a narrow ledge. Climb the slab above towards a belay at a tree in the corner.
Pitch 3 (25 m) 4a – Climb the very wet crack/corner chimney line to the left of the belay, past an overhang, until it is possible to move left into a small grassy gully.
Pitch 4 (18 m) 4b – Make an exposed finger traverse leftwards along the crack. Climb up from the large scoop on the edge of the wall to the bottom of the slabs above.
Pitch 5 (32 m) 4a – Climb the centre of the two slabs above with increasing difficulty. When the slabs steepen up, by the second break, step left onto the arete and follow this to the top of the crag.

There are several variations to this route, including climbing to the left of the crack/chimney on thin features on Pitch 3, continuing straight up the dihedral on Pitch 4, and/or proceeding to Suicide Rock on Pitch 5.

A more complete description of the route, and other Trad Routes on Kowloon Peak can be found in D.C. Reeve's 1968(?) book "A Guide to Rock Climbing in Hong Kong"

Location

Set in the Center of the Main Crag, Sunset Crack is reached by starting from No.1 Fei Ngo Shan Road. Walk a short way up the drive way (private road) until an obvious small track starts leading up the hillside to the right. Follow this up the hill, going to the left when the track splits, roughly level with the base of the crag. Follow this track down to the base of the crag, continuing until reaching the center of the crag, with the lowest point of Yellow Wall directly above. While the start of the route is not extremely obvious, it is appears as a 5-7m high section of steep rock that then eases to a ramp leading to the base of the Yellow Wall.

Descent: Descend by hiking off via obvious trail proceeding to hiker's left (east) when facing downhill.

Protection

1 set of nuts, Cams to #3, tricams useful for horizontal traverse.

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