PRINT: Rock Climb The Slash, Little Cottonwood Canyon

The Slash

5.12a, Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
FA: Steve Hong and Karin Budding, 80s
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Altered States Gully

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Approach pitch: 100ft, 5.5
Wander up the slabs, ledges, and corner systems aiming for the base of the obvious hanging crack. Pro is sparse, but the climbing is easy. Belay at 2 bolts.

The goods: 50ft, 5.12a
A reachy first lock gets you off the slabs into a strenous traverse. A tricky corner turn gives way to hand jams straight up to the top. 2 bolt anchor. Short, but burly and 30° overhung the whole way. A worthy hard crack climb, though a bit gritty for now.

Descent:
Route is now equiped with ring hangers at the top of both pitches. Can be done in 2 raps with a single 60m, but watch your ends.

Location

Look for slash crack high up on the left side as you enter the gully.

Protection

Single rack to 3, doubles 0.4-1 could be useful. Sharp jams, tape up!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route overview

Steep!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Cole Bradburn
Salt Lake City, UT

Went up to try this route last night. Super awesome but still a bit dirty. Also, I was on the jug right below where the crack transitions and goes straight up and got bit by a bat.... Sounded like there were a bunch in there. One was pissed and clinging to the highest 1.25 inch cam that I had in. Time to get a rabies shot for me! This route would be super good if it got a good cleaning. I might clean it unless someone else does it before I get up there again.

Cheers! Sep 27, 2016