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Routes in North Castle

Rapunzel's Hair S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 225 total, 15/month
Shared By: Refuge Jared on Sep 14, 2016
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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A nice tall climb with an epic view of the lake! This route predates the 2015 development project but the hardware is modern. It's originally rated at 5.7, and although the start feels quite moderate, a transition from juggier holds to a bumpy but polished face climb crux could feel like a 5.9. Still moderate, but heady for a "5.7" lead compared to other 5.7 routes in this area. Good holds, fun moves, variety in the terrain. Lower off.


To find Rapunzel's Hair 5.7 go North at a trail marker on a rock just after the Castle Gates. The trail wanders unnecessarily between two large boulders. From here, hike the trail in the general direction of the North West end of Castle Rock until the lake is in view and you come around to a rocky gully that can be scrambled to the summit. Look for bolts! Rapunzel's Hair 5.7 can be found on the Left side of this gully.


6 draws. Open cold shuts at the anchor.


14 draws (for a 60' climb)? Harder than 5.7? Might not be the same climb. Rapunzel's Hair is 6 draws (plus the open cold shuts) and maybe a 5.8 move but not 5.9.
There were some really old hangars (leeper i think) climbers left of rapunzel's hair. maybe someone updated those? May 29, 2017