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Routes in Independence Peak

North Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
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Type: Trad, Alpine
FA: Probably Norman Clyde
Page Views: 376 total · 16/month
Shared By: Chris D on Sep 14, 2016
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A great little Sierra scramble and climb, you can make what you want of the North Ridge. Gain the ridge on brushy talus north of the first rocky obvious outcropping and head south toward the summit. Staying on the ridge proper presents the usual challenges, but finding your way below the steep rocky summit ridge on the west side of the ridge is not too difficult.

East of the ridge proper looked rocky and technical. We followed along the ridge top for a while, then dropped down on the west side of the ridge to get around a couple of huge shoulders of rock, then scrambled up a gully that culminates in a short, steep, clean section of easy fifth class climbing which ends right at the northern point of the narrow summit ridge.

Eventually the terrain pushes you to the spectacular knife-edge ridge, a 100-yard third-class traverse of fantastic scrambling on solid terrain. Great views from the summit! Four to Six hours should do it, car-to-car.

Location

From the Onion Valley parking area, walk through the campground to campsite #8. From here, follow the signed Robinson Lake Trail about 1/2 mile to 9,700 feet where you cross an obvious flat area to the base of the talus field that leads to the ridge. Cut up and left through the steep talus, picking the most pleasant way through that you can. Once on the ridge, head straight for the top of the first rocky formation, splitting it in the middle. This leads to a section of the ridge before a number of large obstacles.

The descent (at least the one we chose) is seen from the summit in its entirety. Looking down to the west, a huge talus chute leads to the bottom of the valley. To get to this talus chute requires a 150-foot downclimb, which is pretty spicy. You can see the downclimb (I believe it's the West Rib) from the summit; it's the steep, broken, brown rib that starts down from the north ridge maybe 50 feet or so from the summit.

Once you get off the rib and into the talus, get ready for one of the greatest talus-skis in the Sierra. Fun! Near the bottom it looks like it cliffs out, but easy passage is found through the rock bands. After a short easy bushwhack, you're right back on the trail headed to your car.

Protection

None. A rope might be wanted by some for the top of the descent.
Climb To Safety
california
  4th
Climb To Safety   california
  4th
A worthy mountain to climb on 9/11. Never forget! Sep 28, 2016

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