All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley Area > Harrison Bluffs > East Wall Trail
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Drew Brayshaw, Shaun Neufeld Sep. 10, 2016.|
|Page Views:||162 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Dru on Sep 13, 2016|
DescriptionPitch 1: 5.10b, 7 bolts, gear (three cams, finger to #3 Camalot size), 35 m.
Climb a short corner and face past a bolt to ledges. Traverse a sloping ramp above ledges to a couple slab moves (5 bolts) to gain a hanging right facing corner and gear protected climbing. Layback up this (fingers to fist) to a tricky mantle. Squirm past a giant Doug Fir (one more bolt) to anchors.
Follow a trail up and left to a handline leading to the next ledge.
Pitch 2: 5.8, 6 bolts, 30 m
Climb a pocketed slab up from the belay and curve left. All bolt protected. Small stance belay below a giant curving flake.
Pitch 3: 5.9, all gear protected (gear to 3", medium cams to #3 camalot and some small/med wire nuts), 25 m
The flake directly above the belay is solid but the flake above that is thin and hollow-sounding. So avoid it by underclinging left from the belay around the arete and then climb past a block and up thin finger cracks to the top of the buttress.
Pitch 2 and 3 might be linkable but watch for rope drag.
The direct flake on p3 has been top roped gingerly at 5.10 but is probably not a good choice for a gear lead.
Pitch 4 is only worth doing if going on to Change Room or Turbulence above. Scramble back from the belay and climb a 2-bolt face (one hard slabby boulder move, then easy cruising) 10m , 2 bolts. Ends right at the base of the Change Room.
LocationApproach: from the East Wall trail, about halfway between Wildcat and Shark Tooth Flake. From the logs on the trail look left to see a scramble trail heading uphill. Follow this to a large boulder and short step with a fixed handline. Climb starts just above.
All belays are fixed for rappel. You can get down P1 with a 60 m rope. When rapping P3, there is a fixed permadraw between P3 and the direct flake - clip both ropes to this on the way down so that the flake doesn't eat your rope when you pull the rap ropes!