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Routes in East Wall Trail

Beautiful Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bin Leadin T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Blue Pill T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Hazel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
First Degree , The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Matrix, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mechanical Advantage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
On Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dutch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Pill T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shark Tooth Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Skinny Fingers T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wildcat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Drew Brayshaw, Shaun Neufeld Sep. 10, 2016.
Page Views: 162 total · 10/month
Shared By: Dru on Sep 13, 2016
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Pitch 1: 5.10b, 7 bolts, gear (three cams, finger to #3 Camalot size), 35 m.
Climb a short corner and face past a bolt to ledges. Traverse a sloping ramp above ledges to a couple slab moves (5 bolts) to gain a hanging right facing corner and gear protected climbing. Layback up this (fingers to fist) to a tricky mantle. Squirm past a giant Doug Fir (one more bolt) to anchors.

Follow a trail up and left to a handline leading to the next ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.8, 6 bolts, 30 m
Climb a pocketed slab up from the belay and curve left. All bolt protected. Small stance belay below a giant curving flake.

Pitch 3: 5.9, all gear protected (gear to 3", medium cams to #3 camalot and some small/med wire nuts), 25 m
The flake directly above the belay is solid but the flake above that is thin and hollow-sounding. So avoid it by underclinging left from the belay around the arete and then climb past a block and up thin finger cracks to the top of the buttress.

Pitch 2 and 3 might be linkable but watch for rope drag.

The direct flake on p3 has been top roped gingerly at 5.10 but is probably not a good choice for a gear lead.

Pitch 4 is only worth doing if going on to Change Room or Turbulence above. Scramble back from the belay and climb a 2-bolt face (one hard slabby boulder move, then easy cruising) 10m , 2 bolts. Ends right at the base of the Change Room.

Location

Approach: from the East Wall trail, about halfway between Wildcat and Shark Tooth Flake. From the logs on the trail look left to see a scramble trail heading uphill. Follow this to a large boulder and short step with a fixed handline. Climb starts just above.

All belays are fixed for rappel. You can get down P1 with a 60 m rope. When rapping P3, there is a fixed permadraw between P3 and the direct flake - clip both ropes to this on the way down so that the flake doesn't eat your rope when you pull the rap ropes!

Protection

Gear from small wire nuts to #3 Camalot. About 10 draws should be sufficient for pro; use more, and more long draws if linking p2 and p3

Photos

Dru
 
Dru  
 
This route was given a touch-up clean last weekend. Nice and buffed right now Aug 29, 2017