Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Tyler Phillips, Troy Anderson, Pete VanSlooten, Brendan Brinkley, 2011
Page Views: 389 total · 14/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Sep 13, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Wasatch Harlem is a fun albeit mildly intimidating romp up one of the big slabs directly below the Fin.
Start in a dirty gully climbing loose-ish choss for about 40' until you can step right on the slab at the first bolt. Traversing shenanigans will get you to the 3rd bolt and the first crux, a bit of slab wizardry getting in and out of a scoop and up (or around) a blunt arete. Take a breath on the ledge and fire up the next steep slab section aiming for a fat chickenhead. Clip the 5th bolt and head up another blunt arete aiming for to a grungy-looking crack up a steeper face. Shoot up the patina to another bolt and the anchor up on the slab.

If you're an idiot and can't read a topo you can skip the finish and instead traverse right along the dirty crack to the 1st anchor of Other Intentions (not bad, bit gritty).

Location

Approach as for the main Fin routes: park as for Lizard Head and follow the Fin trail which skirts the base of the formation (now quite overgrown). Cross the talus / approach gully for The Wave of Mutilation then walk past the base of Other Intentions (clean low angle slab poking out of thick trees). The trail steepens along the base of the wall and reaches a flat brush-free spot below another nice looking slab guarded by a steep gully.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts and a single set up to a #2 (only a couple pieces needed, lots of options, I didn't place any nuts). Runners helpful to mitigate rope drag. 70m mandatory for lowering, a 60m would leave you to downclimb a good chunk of the gully.

Photos

- No Photos -
You can continue up Lyin' and Cryin' for a easy 2nd pitch. (5.6ish all bolts) Sep 13, 2016