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Infernal Affairs
5.10d,
Sport, 75 ft (23 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 6
votes
FA: Tuzi, Xiao Lu, A Niu 12/2007
International
> Asia
> China
> Guangxi Province
> YangShuo
> Wine Bottle
Access Issue: Access Issues
Details
Theres been some ongoing battles at the heavily traveled Wine Bottle Cliff. As one of the more popular and public areas the locals have tried in the past to capitalize off the traffic by charging for access to crags they dont own. Unfortunately its flared up again and it seems like they have the police on their side now. More information can be found here:
yangshuoaccess.org/
Description
Quite the squeeze job, but a wonderful route nonetheless. Start up a slight left-facing dihedral and pull fun moves up to a big hole. A tricky sequence here to small crimps and then a good rest. The pump continues through big holds and gymnastic moves to a set of chalked holds along a slopey horizontal. Find the ones you want, pull up to a spike-edge, and crux to the jugs. Keep it together through the last bit and a small runout as you pull up to the ledge.
Heinous for the grade!
Location
Middle of the wall, left of a black streak, right of a small roof.
Protection
![The climber is on "Where's the Jug?". There are two routes through the mini-roof. This route route starts just left of the black streak on the right. The orange rope is on a fifth route up the tufa.]()
[Hide Photo] The climber is on "Where's the Jug?". There are two routes through the mini-roof. This route route starts just left of the black streak on the right. The orange rope is on a fifth rou…
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