Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dave Bingham (with Hannah North & Mike Engle)
Page Views: 656 total · 24/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Sep 12, 2016
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

This route appears to be the now-bolted top-rope Dave Bingham mentions here.
It takes a direct line which stops at its own anchor about 10' below the top of P1 of Raindance, (although the last bit of slab to the Raindance anchor is worth climbing).
Scamper up a steepish shallow dihedral with crumbly quartz chunks to interesting moves on good patina then get your slab game on and friction up a pillar to the right of a tree, using the edge of said pillar to keep the climbing moderate.

Location

Furthest left route on Flaming Rock, about 30' left of the start of Raindance.

Protection

Bolts (I want to say 7 or 8) to an independent bolted anchor below the top of P1 of Raindance.
A 70 m works to reach and lower from the anchor on top of the first pitch of Raindance, adding a bit of fun climbing. Not sure how a 60 m would work from there, definitely OK from the lower anchor though.

Photos

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With help from Hannah North and Mike Engle. Dec 10, 2016
applewood
Tonasket, WA
  5.9
applewood   Tonasket, WA
  5.9
After a 21 year absence of climbing in The City I thought I'd do the highly recommended Raindance to get reacquainted....so followed the new guide's topo... and headed up this thing by mistake! At the time I thought it must be at least 7+ and not the 7 everyone thought...haha. In retrospect it may be a 10- but it's probably easier. I did find the bolting to be odd though with some of the clips to be long reaches, and down low felt a fall from the patinaed face would be nasty, so really didn't enjoy it much despite the wonderful rock. May 8, 2017
The guidebook photo and text describe this route as "20 feet or so left of "Raindance". The start of Raindance is a bit in-obvious - a weird gully feature followed by a leftward traverse that's not great looking. For "Tail Feather", walk left, past the well-beaten"Raindance" staging area. As for any "long reaches"; if you find yourself reaching high to clip, it probably means you've got a bolt at your knees and should make another move before clipping! May 15, 2017
applewood
Tonasket, WA
  5.9
applewood   Tonasket, WA
  5.9
As someone unfamiliar with this part of The City the start of Raindance did not jump out at us, although the more direct line of Tail Feather did. I thought Tail Feather an aesthetic looking line, while the indirect first pitch of Raindance (which we only saw once we had gotten down) looked contrived (and even abandoned seeming - lol). As for the long reach part (btw, they weren't very hard for me at 6'2" to reach, but I figured they would be for a short climber), the first was down low after the short patina face (3rd bolt?), with the previous clip way below my feet where it felt like a fall would lead to a bad swing into that starting gully, and another was a bit higher with the clip off to the side. Anyway we didn't know Tail Feather had been bolted yet (from the topo it looked like it was the offwidth corner about 15' to the left, and not directly under the mid anchors of Raindance where we figured that route's first pitch would be), so it was hard to figure out where the 5.7 should be going! No harm done though, and it sure made the easier 2nd (5.5) pitch of Raindance seem delightful. May 19, 2017
Anchor needs to be rebolted. Top anchor is loose and bottom anchor is missing nut. Luckily you can climb about 15' more to the anchor at the top of P1 for Rain Dance. Jun 19, 2017
Tail Feather anchor has been repaired and is good to go. Thanks Hannah North!! Jun 20, 2017
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.10a
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.10a
D'ont understand how anyone could rate this 1 star. Moving on to the patina requires some nice moves. Jun 25, 2018
Wow, I'm a 5.7/8 leader but just led a 10a, thinking it was Raindance. Thanks to whoever bolted it so nicely. It felt hard but not scary. Sep 13, 2018