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Routes in Village Wall

Bridge Tender S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillage the Village S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Village Idiot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Village People S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Offenbacher, Zach Fleicher
Page Views: 758 total, 52/month
Shared By: Refuge Jared on Sep 11, 2016
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

Be careful of rope snag while descending this route. See below.

Vertical start with good holds (5.6 or 5.7). Then about 10' run out of 5.5 to mussy hooks for anchors. Good idea to establish name use when calling "take" if you have neighboring climbers here to avoid confusion and possibly a fall.

It's convenient for the next leader to start at the Left side of the first anchor. Follow bolts up low angle and somewhat dirty second pitch (5.5) to mussy hooks for anchors.

The rock above the second set of anchors is loose and a hazard to climb as holds can break and rock fall can injure or kill people below.

Rappel down. Going up is the easy part. Coil and throw rope out to avoid snags on the low angle second pitch. CAUTION: Be picky about finding the midpoint of the rope to rappel, the second pitch is almost exactly long enough to rappel down a 60 meter rope.

Find the least featured, most straightforward and vertical way to rappel down the first pitch (about 10 feet Right of the start) to avoid snagging the rope when you pull it.

Location

From the beginning of Village Wall, continue West walking across to the end of a fallen tree where the path continues. From here you can see a large flat boulder leaning against the crag. Village People starts just Right of this boulder.

Protection

9 bolts on each pitch. Mussy hooks at both anchors. Well protected except for 10' 5.5 run out at end of first pitch. Second pitch has somewhat greater lengths between bolts but offers easy climbing.

Photos

Walt Barker
Reno NV
 
Walt Barker   Reno NV
 
5 stars for the first pitch. This is the by far one of the best pitches of sport 5.6 that I have ever climbed; steep, somewhat exposed and just plain fun. May seem harder than the grade, but everything there, super positive. The second pitch is good for multi pitch practice or as a first lead. A big thank you
to the developers! Nov 19, 2016
KeithR
  5.6
KeithR  
  5.6
The first pitch is a really fun 5.6. Really steep for the grade, with jugs where you need them. 4 stars. Nov 18, 2016