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Routes in Village Wall
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Bridge Tender S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Disco Cowboy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pillage the Village S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Village Idiot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Village People S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Todd Offenbacher, Zach Fletcher |
| Page Views: | 4,095 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Refuge Jared on Sep 11, 2016 |
| Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Partial seasonal raptor closure
Details
This area is known for seasonal falcon nesting.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
Description
Be careful of rope snag while descending this route. See below.
Vertical start with good holds (5.6 or 5.7). Then about 10' run out of 5.5 to mussy hooks for anchors. Good idea to establish name use when calling "take" if you have neighboring climbers here to avoid confusion and possibly a fall.
It's convenient for the next leader to start at the Left side of the first anchor. Follow bolts up low angle and somewhat dirty second pitch (5.5) to mussy hooks for anchors.
The rock above the second set of anchors is loose and a hazard to climb as holds can break and rock fall can injure or kill people below.
Rappel down. Going up is the easy part. Coil and throw rope out to avoid snags on the low angle second pitch.
CAUTION: Be picky about finding the midpoint of the rope and TIE STOPPER KNOTS to rappel, the second pitch is almost exactly long enough to rappel down a 60 meter rope.
Find the least featured, most straightforward and vertical way to rappel down the first pitch (about 10 feet Right of the start) to avoid snagging the rope when you pull it.
Vertical start with good holds (5.6 or 5.7). Then about 10' run out of 5.5 to mussy hooks for anchors. Good idea to establish name use when calling "take" if you have neighboring climbers here to avoid confusion and possibly a fall.
It's convenient for the next leader to start at the Left side of the first anchor. Follow bolts up low angle and somewhat dirty second pitch (5.5) to mussy hooks for anchors.
The rock above the second set of anchors is loose and a hazard to climb as holds can break and rock fall can injure or kill people below.
Rappel down. Going up is the easy part. Coil and throw rope out to avoid snags on the low angle second pitch.
CAUTION: Be picky about finding the midpoint of the rope and TIE STOPPER KNOTS to rappel, the second pitch is almost exactly long enough to rappel down a 60 meter rope.
Find the least featured, most straightforward and vertical way to rappel down the first pitch (about 10 feet Right of the start) to avoid snagging the rope when you pull it.
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