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Une arête dans la gorge

5.9+, Sport, 1800 ft (545 m), 12 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 7 votes
FA: December 2015 by Julio Soares Aventures verticales Maroc
International > Africa > Morocco > Todra Gorge > Arrete nord

Description

A new easy multipitch route for beginners, to learn climbing on bolted multipitch routes, but also allowing an introduction to trad climbing since you can belay at the bolted stations.

This route is located on the beautiful north ridge on the left at the exit of the gorges.

This route is 12 pitches for approximately 550m which makes it the longest route of the gorges.

Its maximum difficulty is 5.9+

Difficulties are : L1: 5.9+ - L2: 5.8 - L3: 5.7 - L4: 5.9 - L5 5.9 - L6 - 5.9 - L7: 5.8 - L8, L9, L10, L11, L12: 5.6 max.

The number of quickdraws max. is 11 in the first pitch.

Modification: Pitches 1-10 are fine, pitch 7 (4a should be more of a 4c) sparse bolts to the left, then unprotected step-up on a spike due to rope angles and ledge. Pitch 10 is more of a scramble along the top it finishes with bolts on a slab. After this there were no bolts! We walked around to the right and scrambled up to a big ledge where we saw old screws with no pitons. Be careful. 

Return

The descent is possible by the right small gorge. By walking and three abseils it takes a "small hour". Otherwise walk along the ridge right up to the collar of the nomads. Abseil points not obvious, not sure if they are still there. Be prepared to walk off (1.5 hours)

Location

Location
Just left above the craft shops, coming out of the gorge towards Tamtatouch
No approach, you are at bottom of the itinerary.

Protection

Very well bolted, 10 quickdraws, 2x50m rope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Upper arete on "Une arete dans la gorge" from across the gorge.
[Hide Photo] Upper arete on "Une arete dans la gorge" from across the gorge.
Climbing Morocco, aventures verticales Maroc, Une arête dans la gorges.
[Hide Photo] Climbing Morocco, aventures verticales Maroc, Une arête dans la gorges.
Arrête nord Todgha gorges, Aventures verticales Maroc
[Hide Photo] Arrête nord Todgha gorges, Aventures verticales Maroc

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Blair Ryan
Washington and Vermont
 
[Hide Comment] This route was easy. The walk off was unclear and we found our way down by scrambling. Not recommended. It’s unclear how to get down. Very few cairns out there. Wondering if we should have walked all the way to the nomad village then descended the trail. Prepare for a long walk off if you do not rappel. And some soloing on the route. One star. May 26, 2023
J R
[Hide Comment] First 10 pitches great climbing on solid rock and many bolts. Last 2 pitches have no bolts and the anchors are not so easy to find because the route doesent follow the path of least resistance. You have to stay on top of the ridge. In this section there are many really big chucks of rock lose. The final anchor also does not exist, you have to build your own. Take at least 5 slings with you if you want to belay the last 2 pitches.

We walked all the way around to get down, nice view but it takes 2 hours. Mar 11, 2024