A new easy multipitch route for beginners, to learn climbing on bolted multipitch routes, but also allowing an introduction to trad climbing since you can belay at the bolted stations.
This route is located on the beautiful north ridge on the left at the exit of the gorges.
This route is 12 pitches for approximately 550m which makes it the longest route of the gorges.
Its maximum difficulty is 5.9+
Difficulties are : L1: 5.9+ - L2: 5.8 - L3: 5.7 - L4: 5.9 - L5 5.9 - L6 - 5.9 - L7: 5.8 - L8, L9, L10, L11, L12: 5.6 max.
The number of quickdraws max. is 11 in the first pitch.
Modification: Pitches 1-10 are fine, pitch 7 (4a should be more of a 4c) sparse bolts to the left, then unprotected step-up on a spike due to rope angles and ledge. Pitch 10 is more of a scramble along the top it finishes with bolts on a slab. After this there were no bolts! We walked around to the right and scrambled up to a big ledge where we saw old screws with no pitons. Be careful.
Return
The descent is possible by the right small gorge. By walking and three abseils it takes a "small hour". Otherwise walk along the ridge right up to the collar of the nomads. Abseil points not obvious, not sure if they are still there. Be prepared to walk off (1.5 hours)
Washington and Vermont
We walked all the way around to get down, nice view but it takes 2 hours. Mar 11, 2024