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Routes in The Melting Mud Wall

AltaTraz S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Antidote S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bird Is the Word, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brain Doner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cotton Mouth King S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dayglow Abortions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go Pogo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Los Crudos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martinez Mind Melter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Melting Into Madness S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minor Threat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pogo Punk S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Public Nuisance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rat Bastards S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repeat and Offend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Septic Death S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinistar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wisky Bench S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 162 total, 11/month
Shared By: Cassidy Thomas on Sep 9, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Stay on the trails Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Start on Melting into Madness and start veering right after the third bolt. The first bolt as this line breaks to the right is only a couple feet to the right of the 4th bolt of Melting into Madness, the line continues to move up and to the right, distancing itself from the Melting into Madness bolt line. After splitting off from Melting into Madness, the route takes you up a thin face before easing up towards the top. The face is of similar difficulty when compared to Cotton Mouth but the climb isn't as sustained as Cotton Mouth.

I tentatively put Greg M and Tyler P as the first ascent on this since they did many of the routes on the wall, including the routes immediately to the left and right of this one. I had seen the grade .10c suggested by a few other climbers, but I'm not sure on the FA's stated grade. If anyone can confirm some of this information or provide some new information on this route (such as a name) just comment or shoot me a PM and I'll adjust the information accordingly.

Location

To the left of Public Nuisance, start on the first three bolts of Melting into Madness and then veer right.

Protection

About 12 bolts plus anchors

Photos

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KameronM
  5.10+
KameronM  
  5.10+
Lead this today and it's a great route, especially if you link it with the second pitch and do it in one big push. The second pitch isn't listed on MP and is different from Bird is the Word(immediately to the left). You can link both of them together and barely get down with a 70m rope. Not sure about bolts, I think 10 and chains(12 total) for pitch one and 18-19 bolts and chains(20-21 total) if you decide to do both pitches and link them in one go. I would agree with the 10+ consensus. Get on it! Aug 11, 2017
Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
 
It seems like this route hasn't gotten much traffic yet. My partner and I knocked of multiple foot holds every time we climbed it, ranging from small pebbles on the face, to thin flakes, to a softball sized chunk. I know Hellgate is chossy but I think it's been proven that, with time, some real gems can form on this rock. This hasn't been cleaned up very well yet, in relation to some of the other popular routes on this wall (Antidote, Cotton Mouth, Melting into Madness, etc..) That aside, this is a good route and will get even better with time. Sep 9, 2016