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Shine On You Crazy Diamond
5.11-,
Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV,
Avg: 2.5 from 6
votes
FA: Matt Cornell, Dylan Thomas
California
> High Sierra
> 06 - Little Lak…
> Ruby Peak
Description
Follows cracks, flakes, and corners up to the large ramp below the spotted red Diamond Wall. Takes the prominent wide looking crack up the left side the vertical face and onto the summit. Crux is sustained but you can find good gear in flared pods that open up in the crack and create good holds. Beware of friable exfoliating rock and hollow flakes, if you can get over the rock quality the climbing is quite fun!
Location
Meanders up Ruby Wall to the base of the splitter looking crack on the red headwall. The start is located just left of a large chimney system.
Protection
double rack from 0.1 to a #3. We did not take a #4 but thought it could have been useful. All gear anchors. No fixed gear.
![The start of the route is the nice looking flake just left of the chimney.]()
[Hide Photo] The start of the route is the nice looking flake just left of the chimney.
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Van
Bishop CA
Its too bad the rock was so flaky, worse then east arete left, the climb would be quite nice if it wasn't constantly raining potato chip flakes and grit on you.
I thought the crux pitch was only 10+. we did get lost after the "awkward ramp" but were still able to traverse over to the head wall crack with a little luck. Sep 24, 2019
Los Cerrillos NM
Pure adventure climbing, we really just walked up and chose unclimbed terrain to the upper headwall that hadn't been climbed yet.
With some more parties getting up this route it could most def be an enjoyable day out. You have to walk off, or at least we did. Full on climbing so you have to be pretty efficient up there. We got back to the base in the dark but that was fine.
Hopefully some folks get on this, clean it up a bit. The final headwall is what you want. Sustained 5.11 climbing, steep. Amazing position. Its a quick approach too. So this could be a great route for parties not wanting a long approach but do want something with challenging pathfinding, adventure and something new. May 27, 2021