For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Beech Cliff Bouldering

Beeched Whale V5+ 6C+ PG13
Beeched Whale, (Left Arete). V0- 4- PG13
Hyperbole V4-5 6B+
Kara V4-5 6B+ PG13
Parking Lot Boulder V1- 5- PG13
Parking Lot Left Arete V0 4
Purity V2-3 5+ X
Purity (Right Variation) V7-8 7B X
Silence is the Question V8-9 7B+ PG13
Unnamed V2-3 5+
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 543 total · 25/month
Shared By: opusgrooves on Sep 8, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description [Suggest Change]

3 moves, but man-o-man are those moves technical.

On the left side of the parking lot problem is "Hyperbole." It chipped in early 2015, making the grade much harder than originally thought.

Stand start on extremely thin, sharp, crimper edges, with glassy feet. Grab an almost non-existent left hand 3-finger crimp, also heinously sharp, get high feet and throw for the decent top out.

Originally thought of as V4, the starting holds and intermediate left hand crimp, chipped.

Location [Suggest Change]

Beech cliff parking lot.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Pads. Short and sweet, but definitely well protected and a low-ball.

Photos

Why is it PG13? Jan 30, 2017
opusgrooves
  V7-
opusgrooves  
  V7-
The landing isn't scary or dangerous aside from the usual risks involved with climbing, hence the PG13 rating. Feb 12, 2017
Joe M.    
That is as G-rated a boulder problem as you can get... Feb 14, 2017
opusgrooves
  V7-
opusgrooves  
  V7-
I assume you've climbed it then, right?

Edited to say: There is no G rated option on mountain project. Feb 26, 2017
Opus, you can leave it blank.

IMO PG13 should be for boulders 15' or higher with particularly poor landing areas. R - 20', x - 30' Mar 2, 2017
Hate to be this guy but probably v6 3rd go Oct 21, 2017
opusgrooves
  V7-
opusgrooves  
  V7-
Alex Poli is off the line. You're supposed to stay to the left of the arete as the route description implies. The side he's climbing is V2. Literally. May 14, 2018
opusgrooves
  V7-
opusgrooves  
  V7-
The reason it's been downgraded is because these people are climbing the V2 on the right side of the arete and making moves off holds that shouldn't be used on that opposing side. Hyperbole climbs straight up the left side. You don't venture right. It's amazing that with all the information on MP and the detailed line drawn out on the photos I submitted that people will still climb it incorrectly and then give their 2 cents. You didn't climb the project "Hyperbole." You climbed the "Parking Problem" and graded it V4/5 when it's a V2. Funny. May 14, 2018
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V4-5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V4-5
Actually, we didn't. I've seen your video. I climbed it the exact same way you did. And I flashed it. And while I have flashed v7 plenty of times, it felt easier than that. I'm putting together a video of the climbs we did in Acadia that will provide all of the 'proof' you need. Alex is using the same starting right hand hold and starting left hand hold that you use. The reason that her feet are different is because she's 5'1" and couldn't just reach to the next left hand hold like you and I can from the starting feet. The reason your climbs are getting downgraded is because they aren't deserving of the grades you gave them. I do appreciate the effort you put into documenting all of these areas. It made my trip to Acadia very enjoyable. You have provided a lot of valuable insight into the area. I'm just giving my honest feedback on grades and danger ratings. May 14, 2018
opusgrooves
  V7-
opusgrooves  
  V7-
I suppose you're right, but the majority of the feedback for this area seems negative. That tends to wear on someone whose dedicated so much time to providing information for people. Apologize if I seem touchy, but that's why. I'm tired of people slandering my problems. I spent months scrubbing many of these and most grades were confirmed and deemed "sketchy" when they were. Difference of opinion I suppose.

  • Also-if a person is too short to stay on route and uses holds from a neighboring climb, they still didn't finish the line. That's how it goes sometimes, but you don't get to "cheat" your way through it.
May 14, 2018

More About Hyperbole

Printer-Friendly