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Solo Crack

5.6, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 3.1 from 10 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Gunnison > Taylor Canyon > First Buttress > Baby Face / Middle Wall

Description

This was my first climb at Harmels back in 1975. It is a sweet corner/crack climb with good pro and an intriquing variety of techniques to deal with. As the name implies, locals regularly 3rd class this route often down from the ledge, but don't let their having it wired allow you take Solo Crack for granted. It is full value. Many options to continue exist, the classic finish being up Aqua Dog.

Solo Crack is a fine first or early lead for the aspiring trad afficianado.

Location

Around the corner and up a short scramble to the left of Tony's Tango lies the cool V slot of Solo Crack.

Protection

A standard Taylor trad rack. This route tops out on the same ledge that Air Conditioner does. Trad anchors are easy to set up here. There are fixed anchors to the right near the top to set up a TR.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Joe Melley and Julie Gauff on the ledge above Solo Crack and below Aqua Dog.
[Hide Photo] Joe Melley and Julie Gauff on the ledge above Solo Crack and below Aqua Dog.
Laurie Dallenbach susses out the gear on Solo Crack.
[Hide Photo] Laurie Dallenbach susses out the gear on Solo Crack.
Legendary local Joe Melley belaying partner up Air Conditioner 'cause it takes two to Tango.
[Hide Photo] Legendary local Joe Melley belaying partner up Air Conditioner 'cause it takes two to Tango.
Engaging the crux, Laurie Dallenbach experiences success on lead.
[Hide Photo] Engaging the crux, Laurie Dallenbach experiences success on lead.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Copied from the Colorful Climber's forum thread:

YDPL8S wrote:Back in the late '70s I had driven up to Taylor Canyon, Gunnison to do some bouldering instead of homework. It was spring time and kind of a cold day, just real light snow flurries. I bouldered around the base for a while and then solo'd up a nice 5.6 dihedral, ironically called Solo. This put me up into an area where there are a lot of ledges and a ton of short 5.7 and 5.8 cracks and faces about 100 feet off the deck. I was cruising up a pretty solid 5.7 jam crack and looked ove, and there was this wiry guy in an anorak face climbing next to me on something that was probably 5.9 or 5.10. We continued to climb together for about the next hour, side by side, smiling at each other and then stopped at the top as the wind kicked up and it got a little colder. He introduced himself as Lou Dawson, and of course I was more than a little impressed, having read numerous accounts of his derring dos in Climbing magazine. We shook hands, and I told him that ironically, his brother Craig and I were in a barbershop quartet together at Western State College. Not much said, never saw him again.
Sep 8, 2016
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Brings back memories, great to see some new posts from you, Phil. Cruisin' with the ladies in Taylor Canyon, what could be better? Cheers! Moss Sep 8, 2016
[Hide Comment] I'm posting more, so check back. You OK that I cut and pasted your memory? Sep 8, 2016
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Not a problem at all, I'm with you there in spirit, enjoying it all vicariously. Sep 8, 2016