Otto's Erotic Asphyxiation
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Peter Blank and Javier Lujan|
|Page Views:||336 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Blank on Sep 7, 2016|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the best "Otto's Route" in the Monument. Find the obvious, vertical, wide crack just right of the approach tunnel.
P1. Start in some nice, loose, low angle choss for 20 feet to where the offwidth becomes vertical and potentially squeezy. Climb through the wide crack to a nice, small section of #4s that is covered in calcite. Continue to the top of the OW, and make a few easy moves up to the large ledge system on your left. A belay can be made here with almost any size cams.
P2. Climb the obvious loose pod to OW to gully to the top. Though easyish, the rock on this pitch is not great, and it may be best to have had a few real Monument experiences before attempting.
This route has quite a lot of loose rock, especially on the second pitch. We cleaned the cracks a little but tried to leave some character in place. There are no fixed anchors.
Descend via The Cleansing: 1 short rap to top of sub-tower and 1 long 65m rap to the ground.