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Routes in Mont de l'Ours

La Directe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pinocchio T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puf!Puf!Puf! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 328 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 121 total, 8/month
Shared By: Chris Py on Sep 7, 2016
Admins: Luc-514

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This site is on the Parc des Grand Jardins SEPAQ Details


The route is in a dihedral.

The crux is in the second pitch, It is a big layback/finger crack pitch for the first 10 meter but this is what it make this route so enjoyable.
Good placement on all the route, The rock is pretty solid.


Parking: accessible by Route 381, at the Mont-du-Lac-des-Cygnes Visitors Centre. Take Le Pioui trail and turn right at the sign for the climbing wall.

When you arrive at the crag, the route is at your left, it is in the big dihedral.


The anchor is bolted.

You have two choice to finish this route. You can climb on till the top and walk on your right to rapeling down on the final anchor of these three route (L'arĂȘte sud, La direct de l'ours and pinochio).

The second option is when you are at the beginning of the second bush, go vertically left to the final anchor of >, and rappeling from there.

You cannot just walk off by the top.