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Routes in Devil's Den Bouldering

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Probably Tim Kemple
Page Views: 234 total, 15/month
Shared By: Graham O. on Sep 6, 2016
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I have been to the Walrus Boulder many times (mainly to work on Individual Medley) and have always stared at this arete. Upon getting the Underground Guidebook and discovering that it is a climb, I got on it and man it's cool!

Stand start at the bottom of a small ditch with two crimps on either side of the arete. Execute the difficult (possibly crux) process of pulling on via slippery heelhook. Make a cool, precise move to an almost non-existent sloper. Get an awkward left heelhook and gun for a good left hand crimp. Match and control the swing before grabbing a sloping pinch on the arete. Scrunch your feet up and gun for the lip. throw a heel and top out. I'm on the shorter side, so I may have described more moves than necessary, but the problem is really fun and I highly encorouge you to get on it!

This can also be done as a stand start from the good crimp, which bumps it down to about v3, and is also quite worthwhile.

Location

The obvious blunt arete about 5 feet right of Tisk, Tisk.

Protection

A few pads and a spotter, for sure. The problem isn't that tall, but the landing isn't exacty ideal (hence the PG13).

Photos

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Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V8 PG13
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V8 PG13
Got on this the other day and it ended up being pretty cool. I was trying to avoid the super sharp left hand crimp for the first move but couldn't do the second move without it. For me sticking the second move without my left foot cutting was the crux. Despite it being sharp I thought it was a worthy climb of Devils Den and this boulder has a lot to offer. I thought it felt around V7/8 the way I climbed it. Got some footage as well. youtube.com/watch?v=qnayjcE… Apr 28, 2017
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
V8+ PG13
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
V8+ PG13
Graham-

The description and grade for this line should be updated in order to make it accurate. The grade given in the Kemple guidebook was v7, though in my opinion this line feels much harder than that. Also, Miles and I were messing around on this line a few weeks ago and I broke the crucial left hand incut/crimp that is about midway up the face. The hold is still usable but nowhere near as good as it was, so the likelihood is that this line has gotten even harder. My guess is solid v8 or up.

And yes, depending on how you do the finishing move to the lip, the fall possibilities on this can be pretty sketchy so a number of pads and spotters are highly recommended. Nov 22, 2016
Graham O.  
 
Cool, thanks for the heads up. I was referring to two bad crimps pretty far down on the arete. I agree that crimp is pretty sharp, but I also agree that it is very worthwhile. Personally, I feel that Feeling for the Heavens is slightly better, but that's just my opinion. About the grade, the way I start it is scrunched and fits my dimensions pretty well. The way you describe it sounds hard (maybe as hard as you're saying). Nice picture, by the way, I would love to see the full video. Sep 15, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
V8+ PG13
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
V8+ PG13
This description isn't accurate.

'The Tusk' starts standing with both hands matched on an undercling to the left of an obvious arete feature (about 5 feet right of 'Tisk, Tisk' if I remember correctly). Pull on with difficulty and use power and trickery to gain the arete at right. Another couple of powerful moves gains the sloping top and a fairly easy, if tall, finish.

Honestly, this climb feels more like v7/8 when climbed this way. And in my opinion it's the second best problem on the boulder. It's only detraction is that one of the holds I use is very sharp.

I can't really envision what problem you're describing, as I know this boulder pretty well. I've attached a screenshot from a video below that shows me about to start the problem.

Sep 15, 2016