P1: Start in the corner, finding some bolts hidden among the moss. Follow bolts up, then right onto slabby cleaner rock. Belay from a 2 bolt anchor at a good ledge next to a tiny tree.
P2: Head out on the slabby face. Climb steepens about mid-way (crux). Belay from 2 bolt anchor on good ledge at the mouth of a large chimney feature.
P3: Move onto the face and trend right on the slab. Go up the right side of the slab, then left on a short ramp toward the notch between the 2 parts of the pinnacle's summit. Belay from new bolt anchor with chains in notch (or on the summit).
Descent: Rap the route in 3 raps with a 60m rope. Each belay station has rap rings. One 60m (ie 2-rope) rappel will also reach the ground in a single rappel.
An alternative rappel from the summit north into a notch where the pinnacle connects with the hillside is also described. This alternative must be possible since I found the chains oriented in that direction when I arrived at the summit, despite the bolts obviously being oriented back towards the route. The old hardware still exists on the summit.
P1-2: 10-12 60cm quickdraws and/or alpine draws .
P3: 2 draws.
Eugene, OR
First two pitches are fun and pretty straight forward. The third pitch is a bit run out toward the top, but by the time you find a place for protection, you're nearly to the summit anchor chains.
If you rappel off the east side, (the natural seeming direction of the chains), you better have a 70M rope, or you'll be hanging 20 feet off the ground and 10 feet from the wall. And be prepared for some swinging around to find ground. A second rappel off a small tree will be required.
Best to rappel north into the notch or back down the route.
To find the climbers trail, find the water drainage pipe, walk downhill and turn right up the hill at two cairns. The trail will switch back a couple times going up to the base of the climb. Jul 15, 2017
Rigby, ID
Corvallis, Or
You can link pitches 2 and 3 with a 70 meter rope. Aug 9, 2017
Phoenix, AZ
From this ledge it is NOT necessary to rap again from the tree (although there were slings on it); you can walk down and right (on mossy ledges) , stay right next to wall and then hike down to the ground. A little scary if the dirt is in the wrong spot, but very doable..
If I did this again, I would probably opt for the three raps down the route.
Should be easy to link p2 & 3 with a 60m. Jul 20, 2018
Portland, OR
West Linn
Edit comment: After repeating the route a few times, I think 5.6 is a sandbag. If you're used to 5.6 from Giant's Staircase (at French's Dome) or 5.6 from Moscow (at Smith) I have bad news for you, the technical movement on this route is 5.6+, a few moves I'd call 5.8, especially off the belays where you really shouldn't whip. It's still quite easy, and I still recommend it, but be aware if you drive all the way out here expecting an easy 3-pitch sport ride you're in for a rough time. May 16, 2021
We kept track of inventory on the climb and here's what we found:
P1: 7 bolts plus a 3 bolt modern anchor with rap rings plus two old (ok looking) bolts. Total of 5 bolts at the anchor. Easy pitch, but going up the crack and around the tree is kind of meh. Skipped a lot of the bolts.
P2: 9 bolts (10 if you want to clip one at the P1. anchor.) The P2 anchor has two glue-in stainless eyes, two quick links, and two rap rings and two extra old bolts for a total of 4 bolts at the P2 belay station.
P3: 3~ish modern bolts plus one potential cam placement .75 black diamond. Although, just like someone said earlier, by the time you find a cam placement the chains a few feet away. I said 3~ish bolts because there are a couple of old bolts here and there on P3. You can either go up the chimney and then drift right out onto the face, or you could use a low bolt out on the face to start. It's a short pitch, you'll figure it out. Modern stainless anchor bolts and a set of chains near the summit. There are three old bolts on top of the pinnacle also, but they are very old. The old ones are good for anchoring to while you sit on top.
We had a 70M rope and did a simul rap from P3 to the top of P1 with plenty of rope left to spare (2nd simul rap from P1 anchors to ground). Not sure if a 60M would reach though for a simul rap from 3 to 1. The simul rap was really fun and saved a bunch of time getting down. If you have a 60M rope I would do it in 3 raps right back down the way you came up. Jul 10, 2022
Bend, OR