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Routes in Santiam Pinnacle

South Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 210 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 894 total · 53/month
Shared By: Ben Stabley on Sep 5, 2016
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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9 Opinions

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Description

P1: Start in the corner, finding some bolts hidden among the moss. Follow bolts up, then right onto slabby cleaner rock. Belay from a 2 bolt anchor at a good ledge next to a tiny tree.

P2: Head out on the slabby face. Climb steepens about mid-way (crux). Belay from 2 bolt anchor on good ledge at the mouth of a large chimney feature.

P3: Do a few stemming moves near the outside of the chimney, then move onto the face. Trend right on the slab, then left toward the notch between the 2 parts of the pinnacle's summit. Optional pro in the large crack right of the notch, as you'll be fairly far above the last bolt (you can see evidence of bolt chopping on this pitch). Belay from new bolt anchor with chains in notch (or on the summit).

Descent: Rap the route in 3 raps with a 60m rope. Each belay station has rap rings.

An alternative rappel from the summit north into a notch where the pinnacle connects with the hillside is also described. This alternative must be possible since I found the chains oriented in that direction when I arrived at the summit, despite the bolts obviously being oriented back towards the route. The old hardware still exists on the summit.

Location

Where the approach trail first encounters the foot of the pinnacle. The route starts at the large corner.

Access by a faint climber's trail that starts on the west-most side (climber's left) of the turn out and immediately goes east (climber's right) across a small rocky wash out. You should be able to pick up the trail again. If you find yourself going directly up a loose rocky gully, you probably turned too soon before finding the path.

Protection

P1-2: 10-12 60cm alpine draws (to manage rope drag), though quickdraws would likely work.

P3: 2 draws, optional medium cam or tricam placement to protect the final moves to the belay stance.

Photos

Andrew Child
Santa Clara
 
Andrew Child   Santa Clara
 
This is a fun route and its in a cool location, its a shame that there isn't much else near by.

You can link pitches 2 and 3 with a 70 meter rope. Aug 9, 2017
Tom Holschuh
  5.6
Tom Holschuh  
  5.6
The loose bolt on the anchor has now been tightened. Jul 25, 2017
Jessie McQuiston  
  5.5
Really fun climb on super tacky, highly featured rock. Holds are plentiful!
First two pitches are fun and pretty straight forward. The third pitch is a bit run out toward the top, but by the time you find a place for protection, you're nearly to the summit anchor chains.

If you rappel off the east side, (the natural seeming direction of the chains), you better have a 70M rope, or you'll be hanging 20 feet off the ground and 10 feet from the wall. And be prepared for some swinging around to find ground. A second rappel off a small tree will be required.
Best to rappel north into the notch or back down the route.

To find the climbers trail, find the water drainage pipe, walk downhill and turn right up the hill at two cairns. The trail will switch back a couple times going up to the base of the climb. Jul 15, 2017
Vyache G
  5.7
Vyache G  
  5.7
slippery mossy 1st pitch, fun moves on the 2nd pitch, 3rd pitch has a runout on 5.4 terrain, great view from the top! Mar 21, 2017