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Routes in Rockaway Beach

Teenage Lobotomy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Ted Doughty and Paul Dowdy
Page Views: 133 total · 8/month
Shared By: Eric M Parks on Sep 5, 2016
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Great face climb up a cracked patina wall to a large ledge, about 120 feet. Start below the sole bolt on the right and then traverse left into the cracked patina. After surmounting the ledge walk to the back right corner and climb two parallel outward flaring cracks to the top, about 30 feet.

Location

Route starts below the solitary bolt on the right. Double rope rappel gets you down to the ground from the anchors.

Protection

There is one bolt at the start of the face climb but the remainder of the face is well protected with stoppers and nuts. Bring medium sized C4s for the flaring cracks at the top. Three "bolt" anchor with webbing and rap ring. At time of writing the anchor had one new Fixe Wedge bolt and two questionable, old 1/4" compression bolts.

Photos

Joe Brophy
San Diego
Joe Brophy   San Diego
This route is very fun with all the patina on it. The start is harder than 5.8. More like 5.10a as long as your at least 5'8" tall. I climbed straight up from the bolt and found protecting the route to be very sparse for the first 20' past the bolt (think ground fall). Maybe with small wires or RP's it would protect ok. After that protection gets good. There is a nice 2 bolt anchor with rap rings at 100'.

Rock quality is really good. This is a fun route but is more like 5.10a R. Nov 14, 2016