PRINT: Rock Climb Lusty Lady, Smith Rock

Lusty Lady

5.8, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 32 votes
FA: Ryan Lawson, Holly Beck, October 1999
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (w) The Marsupials > Mud Pile

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Start up the climb "Carla the Stripper" and at the midpoint anchors veer up and left following the bolt line ascending the nice slab just left of Carla. Bring some long runners to reduce rope-drag. Belay your second up from the top of the crag. This route can also be lead as two pitches but makes a really nice long single pitch...

Location

West face of The Mudpile. Start on the left side of a large flake leaning against the base of the wall.

Protection

14 Bolts, Alpine draws to reduce rope-drag

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing Lusty Lady

Katie C on Lusty Lady

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Stabley
Portland, OR

Very fun slab on the upper half! Oct 25, 2016

marmot marmot
Eugene, OR

5.8

A 70m will barely reach the ground from the top. Oct 21, 2018

Stacy Levichev

5.9

Difficult and awkward start for a 5.8 (the 5.10a around the corner is much easier in my opinion). Fun slab finish. We decided to follow advice I read somewhere to traverse over the top of mudpile to the lower area between mudpile and mini half dome and rappel from there. We rapped off the chains at the top of Tuff Shit. I do not recommend this to people not comfortable with unprotectable exposure haha. Overall I don’t get why this has 4 stars in the guidebook. Nov 15, 2021