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Sport, 45 ft,
Avg: 2.5 from 2
FA: Marcus Floyd
> CM: Providence
> North Area
> Battress Area
Access Issue: Private Property; Battress Wall is currently closed to climbers
Currently, as of 2017, the Battress Wall, located along Providence North, is not open to climbers. The previous land developer, which was aware of climbers and provided a verbalized ok to climbing access, pasted away. The current developer and owner does not currently want climbers accessing the cliff line. Providence Main Wall and Providence South Wall is open to climbers accessing the cliff line along the property line and the owner is aware of climbers. Please respect private property and stay along the property line and cliffs.
"On Deck" is a term that refers to a person being up next to bat. In this case, it referred to the next person in line to climb the Battress. This line ends at a two bolt anchor system, available as a rap station or as a way to access the TR anchors for the Battress. Who's next in line for the Battress? "Squeaker' is the new route bolted between the Battress and On Deck. Warm up on these steep slab lines then tackle your trad ascent of the Battress. The lower crux of 'On Deck' is at the obvious transition into the dihedral formation then the upper crux is just a balance move above the forth bolt. This line has new permadraws and rap anchor chains. The forth bolt was moved right a few feet to force climbers to stay right.
This route starts at the second line of bolts to the right of the Battress Crack. Climb up 10 to 15 feet then traverse left a few steps and continue up into the left facing dihedral structure. Pull up onto the upper face by either moving straight up or by angling up and left. You make the choice. Original ascent line continues straight above the last bolt.
Permadraws provided. Take a rappel device to reduce wear on rap anchors. The forth bolt on this line was moved slightly right during the upgrade.