Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Eirik Austlid, Hafdan Erik Egeberg 1989|
|Page Views:||216 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Phil Lauffen on Aug 31, 2016|
|Admins:||Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan|
This route is generally hard to describe, and we may not have even been on "God Tid". I'll describe what we did.
P1. Start up the indistinct dihedrals until you can step right into a short left facing dihedral (fixed cam here). Head up until you find a nice ledge to belay on. 5.8
P2. Traverse right until you find yourself below a hanging dihedral with some flakes on the right side. This dihedral is hidden from the left. Find gear and power up until you are on a ledge below a big, wet rf dihedral. Go up this until you can step left onto a sloping ledge and find a suitable belay. 5.8
P3 Crux off the ledge up a thin crack until you can pull left onto a ledge. Wander up and left through a bunch of loose stuff and mantles until you get on some decent, but lichen covered water-grooved rock. Fire straight up. If you are scared, easier climbing can be found in the drainage to your left. Go until you can see the Norwegian flag on the summit. 5.9+
From the summit, wander down to the south along 4th and easy 5th class for 30m until you locate some rap chains around a huge block. 1x 50m rap will get you to the large ledge system from which you can traverse northwest back to your gear.