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Routes in Devil's Den Bouldering

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 112 total · 6/month
Shared By: Graham O. on Aug 30, 2016
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

I did this fun little gem a while ago, and thought it was worth posting. My description might be off a bit, but I remember it as a really fun slab problem, definitely worth doing if you like thin, crimpy, technical climbing. Stand start with your left hand on a thin crimp and your right pressing against the wall. Pull on via some intense footwork, and pull the crux reach to a decent sidepull. Make a hard pull-through to a crimp right above it before bumping to an incut edge. Match, and make an easy mantle to a massive jug at the lip. Throw a heel and top out. The name comes from the butthole boulder, which itself is named after the target hold of the first move of Up and Smoke (an incut hueco).

Location

On the Butthole Boulder (same as Up in Smoke). When looking at Big Ocean, traverse the boulder right for a few feet until you reach a gap in the moss. You have located the Butthole Surfer.

Protection

A pad or two. The problem is tall but has a good landing.

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