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Routes in Amon Gwareth

Look Before You leap T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shenanigans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Zoe Manson, Evan Guilbault, Evan Lockhart, Max merkin
Page Views: 207 total · 9/month
Shared By: EJG on Aug 29, 2016
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Logging Roads - Restricted Access Details

Description

A fun moderate perfect for a Summer heat wave. Incredible position over looking the Eldred Valley. Great rock, good gear, direct line, beautiful.

Note! There are no anchor or rap stations on this climb as of 2017.

Approach: Walk along base of Amon Gwareth. Traverse beneath the slabby wall reaching far left. The clean far left corner system on the slabby wall is the start.

Pitch 1: Head up the slabby ramp following an awkward corner system. 5.8 60m

Pitch 2: Continue straight up the beautiful corner crack. 5.7 60m

Pitch 3: The "Bushy pitch". Leave this one for the Coastal connoisseur. Continue straight up weaving to the left of the trees. Build an anchor on the bushy ledges keeping in mind the climb traverses gently to the right. 5.9 50m.

Pitch 4: Traverse! Traverse rightwards to an obvious clean flake. Build anchor. 5.6 20m

Pitch 5: Climb above the clean flake into a gorgeous splitter getting wider as you go. All types of crack technique get you to the top of this wonderful pitch. 5.9+ 50m

Pitch 6: Finish up a fantastic clean splitter, over unprotected slab and mantle on to a magnificient summit overlooking most of the Eldred River Valley. 5.8 60m

Location

N/a

Protection

SR-4, Alpine rack.

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