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Routes in Guilt Edge

Gilty Hooker, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Chris Pelczarski, Rene Ohms, Sam Nicolai, Brenda Poppens, and Bill Lugg - August 28th, 2016
Page Views: 183 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tater Tot on Aug 29, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Beautiful crystal pinching on great rock in an awesome location! Starts in your face with a small bulge to a dead vertical crimper section. After two bolts, proceed to a short vertical finger crack which takes gear. Continue above this on techy 5.9 past one more bolt and a very small tricky gear placement in a horizontal pod. Easier terrain leads to your last piece in a mid sized horizontal which you use to traverse about 10 feet right to a band of crystals you can use to gain the summit.

As you might guess, the route was done ground up by two hookers covered in glitter.

Location

The route begins on the west face. Look for the two bolts down low. By the end of the route, you will have traversed onto the south/southwest face, which faces North Needle. Single rope rap of at least 60m will get you down. Do not recommend lowering due to drag.

Protection

3 bolts and a rack of your smallest pieces up to a .75 or 1 BD camalot. Bolted anchor at the top currently set up with cord but no rap biner.

Photos

BBQ
  5.10b
BBQ  
  5.10b
The Conns fled across the Southern Hills, and the rest of us followed. They found a tower, and then kept looking for another one. I don't know if they found this one. But if they did, I am willing to bet that one of them told the other that they should leave it for the next generation of drill slingers, and then the other imagined a merry band of pranksters and rock monkeys (with the right amount of guts and ethics) tip toeing up the final steps of this nearly perfect cathedral of a mixed line. After summiting this tower, you and your friends will enter Valhalla, proclaiming to God, and everyone else who can hear you, that this is the good stuff. Sport climbers rejoice! Thou shall clip bolts during the overhung five ten crimper section! Just make sure that a crucial Wild Country Z4 is placed just right. Then you better make sure that your sport climber mindset melds perfectly with the collective unconscious of souls of those Needles pioneers who were much braver than you. It's five nine climbing on huge bucket knobs to the next horizontal crack that eats gear almost as good as Moby Dick eats legs. Get a good rest and enjoy a safe run out to the anchors. PLEASE! PLEASE! PLEASE! Get on this climb! Only after doing a route like this will you realize that the next generation has officially earned the torch they have been passed. Please keep blazing the trail for us, good men and women of the Conns' dreams, for you have officially raised the bar to the next level with this one! Sep 11, 2016

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