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Routes in The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)

Altoids On the Beach S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baditude S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Burning Up The Hillside S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fire Starter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Homesteader, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Howl Of A Hungry Cat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kelp Bed Freak Show S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lady Of The Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lipstick Sunset S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Montana Floodgates S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning Sunshine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nimby S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nuns on the Beach S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sundance S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tanning Block, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Walking On The Sun S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Walking with the Homesteader S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waves of Rays S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waves on the Beach S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Willie's Wake Up Call Girl S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 114 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 28, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Kelp Bed Freak Show is a route with some good movement but is marred by ledges and rope position during a lead.

Unclip the 3rd and 5th bolts upon getting the 4th and 6th, respectively, to reduce rope drag and keep the rope from running horizontally below you during a crux move or potential fall.

Climb up past 2 bolts on vertical terrain to a awkward move and a 3rd bolt. Pull onto lower angle rock, and cruise up toward a corner, above another sloping ledge. Stay right in the corner, and do some palming and stemming until incuts are reached. Then climb these to the top. At the top, you can struggle up a pile of big round rocks, or you can find the one good jug below these (perhaps buried in dirt again, as it tends to be), and then move left good 4-finger edges and to the anchor on good rock, provided you keep your eyes open for that option.

Location

Just up and right from the tightly-bolted and rounded arete of Nuns on the Beach lies this undulating climb up to and through the overhanging and obtuse corner.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

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