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Routes in The Dome

Fat Lip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NW Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slabajama T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Small Brain Syndrome (S.B.S) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wings of Steel T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 320 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Vit-D & K-Star
Page Views: 199 total, 13/month
Shared By: Matt Mielke on Aug 28, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Falcon Closure Details
Seasonal closures Details

Description

This is a super mellow multi-pitch up lower angle terrain. The route is characterized by short crack systems connected by short bolt-protected slab sections. With a 60m rope, you can link pitches 1 & 2 or 2 & 3. The third pitch brings you to the top of the pillar, right of the shield. From here, you can climb a forth pitch to the top of the dome.

P1. Follow a hand crack up and left past a couple of bolts to a bolt anchor just below a right-angling undercling.

P2. Continue up the obvious undercling crack, pull up onto a small stance, and then traverse up and right across an insecure but well-protected slab (crux) to a bolt anchor.

P3. Head straight up the slab from the belay, pull through a small roof, and clip a couple of bolts on your way up to the top of the pillar.

P4. This is an optional pitch to the top of the dome proper. Move belay 30' over to the top of the descent gully, next to a small pine tree. Head up the hand crack and past 3 more bolts to a chain anchor at the top of the dome.

Descent: rap back to the top of the pillar, and either descend the obvious gully down to the base of the shield or rap the route.

Location

This route is located climber's right of the shield, on the lower angle slabs that lead to the top of the detached pillar. Start the route down below the shield at the base of the slab. About midway around the front of the slabs, look for a bolt about 30' off the ground, and look for the right-arching undercling crack above. Start the route here.

Protection

1 set of cams up to 3", optional stoppers and/or extra small cams, a few quickdraws, a few extendable runners, and a 60m rope.

Photos

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Were all these bolts hand drilled? Aug 30, 2016