Type: Trad, Alpine, 3000 ft, 31 pitches, Grade V
FA: Dalphin, Piola, Probost, Wiestlibach 1983 as Geneva Diedre, 5.10 A4. FFA Bechtel-Bechtel-Lilygren-Mallamo-Model-Piana-Skinner 1998.
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Shared By: Scott Bennett on Aug 28, 2016
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Description

This route was first climbed by a Swiss team in 1983, and named the Geneva Diedre. A large American team worked on it in 1998, freeing it and and renaming it "War and Poetry".

Not sure the thinking of the FFA team, but to me the name reflects the climbing style of the route, though in reverse order.

The lower half, through pitch 17, is mostly poetic and graceful face climbing, up an ever-steeping slab. The crux of this section is a series of 4 tricky pitches, 13-17.

The next section is war. The massive right-facing dihedral that forms the upper half is unrelentingly physical, with steep flares and wide cracks. If you're not honed on this style, the OW pitches could feel severely sandbagged.

Above the OW section, the beautiful Bowstring crack provides two pitches of difficult finger crack.

Descend by rapping the route with two 60m ropes. The Black Heart ledge is a mediocre bivy for two, as is the p23 ledge.

Location

Up the middle of the massize west face of Ulamersortuaq, into the long RF dihedral.

The route starts up some ledges shared with Moby Dick, and then traverse out right onto the face. See photo.

Protection

Double set of cams to #3, single 4-6. 16 QDs, stoppers and RPs.

Photos

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