Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Call Me Ishmael

5.9, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 14 votes
FA: Rob Stauder & Ishmael Chivite, November 1999
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Big Bear City Area > Holcomb Valley… > Pinnacles South > Lost Orbit Rock > Lost Orbit Rock… > Lost Orbit Rock - E F…

Description

Start on the arete then head into the left trending crack with a variety of placements. Tricky moves over bulge to a rest on some plates to the left where you contemplate your next moves. Surmount the roof with a few awkward moves into a wide crack (#4 C4 placement) that heads to the right and narrows the higher you go. Higher up the steepness lessens as the crack widens. 

Use anchors for Stand up comedy or build anchor using gear.

Location

Crack system just left of Stand Up Comedy.

Protection

Gear to 5", largest piece i carried was a #4 C4. Two #3's were nice to have. If building an anchor wide gear is necessary.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Maria at the Crux
[Hide Photo] Maria at the Crux
Climbing Call me Ishmael 20+ years after first FA with Rob Stauder. Again with Robert, but a different one: Bob Garrity
[Hide Photo] Climbing Call me Ishmael 20+ years after first FA with Rob Stauder. Again with Robert, but a different one: Bob Garrity
Route detail
[Hide Photo] Route detail
Another of the route
[Hide Photo] Another of the route
Lower route, Route is still dirty down low (as you can see)
[Hide Photo] Lower route, Route is still dirty down low (as you can see)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kiel Swanson
Irvine, California
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Thought it was a possible FA but after research, I found a name (call me ishmael) and grade (5.7). Im not sure where the route is meant to follow, I followed the crack system and found the grade to be harder than the stated 5.7, Closer to 5.9/easy 10. I felt that grade to be on par compared to other trad routes in the Pinnacles. The way i climbed it required one committing/ Awkward fist jam to get established in the right slanting crack. Aug 28, 2016
MariaZ Zimmerman
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I led this route yesterday. I had a BD 5 and was able to place it perfectly on the crux. I thought I had the first ascent too before finding this page. I had a name and everything. I also was thinking it was in the 5.9+/5.10a range.

The pull to move under the roof into the right leaning crack was a little burly without great feet. I'd call it a 5.10a for that move alone. Sep 17, 2017
Matt H
Redlands, CA
[Hide Comment] There's no way this route is 5.7. It's gotta be 5.10a at least. The mossy and crumbly feet right before the crux were a fight. Jul 14, 2019
Joe Hunt
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Dirty and grunty POS, better to not and say you did. Sep 9, 2019
BryanOC
All over
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This is a fair 5.7. Chossy and dirty. If this climbs like a 5.10a, then you are climbing it wrong. Because I am NOT a 10a on-sight climber. And I was able to onsight this climb. Wide #3 hands on the right leaning last half of climb.

Not bad if you're walking out of the crag and want to use your gear at Holcomb. But don't come looking for this climb. NOT a classic. Sep 9, 2019
Josh P
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This is Jtree 5.7, not Holcomb Valley 5.7. Sep 23, 2019
David Tran
Los Angeles, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Super stiff for a 5.7. Definitely felt way harder. Really mossy and dirty right before the crux so watch your feet. May 24, 2021
James Sohn
Lake Elsinore, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Maybe I'm lame, but I found this climb to be much harder than a 5.7 and very awkward. Not interested in trying it again. Nov 27, 2021
Michael Richichi
Portland, OR
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This is 5.9 in the Big Bear Lake guidebook. Apr 15, 2022