Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Rob Stauder & Ishmael Chivite, November 1999
Page Views: 364 total · 13/month
Shared By: Kiel Swanson on Aug 28, 2016
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the arete then Head into the left trending crack with a variety of placements. Tricky moves over bulge to a rest on some plates to the left where you contemplate your next moves. Surmount the roof with a few awkward moves into a wide crack (#4 C4 placement) that heads to the right and narrows the higher you go. Higher up the steepness lessens as the crack widens. Use anchors for Stand up comedy or build anchor using gear.

Location

Crack system just left of Stand Up Comedy.

Protection

Gear to 5", largest piece i carried was a #4 C4. Two #3's were nice to have. If building an anchor wide gear is necessary.

Photos

Kiel Swanson
Irvine, California
  5.7
Kiel Swanson   Irvine, California
  5.7
Thought it was a possible FA but after research, I found a name (call me ishmael) and grade (5.7). Im not sure where the route is meant to follow, I followed the crack system and found the grade to be harder than the stated 5.7, Closer to 5.9/easy 10. I felt that grade to be on par compared to other trad routes in the Pinnacles. The way i climbed it required one committing/ Awkward fist jam to get established in the right slanting crack. Aug 28, 2016
MariaZ Zimmerman
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
MariaZ Zimmerman   San Diego, CA
  5.10a
I led this route yesterday. I had a BD 5 and was able to place it perfectly on the crux. I thought I had the first ascent too before finding this page. I had a name and everything. I also was thinking it was in the 5.9+/5.10a range.

The pull to move under the roof into the right leaning crack was a little burly without great feet. I'd call it a 5.10a for that move alone. Sep 17, 2017