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Czech Chimney

5.8, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 8 votes
FA: Bryan Kent, Alana, Zavier Derouche
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Smoke Bluffs > Funarama
Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description

Bourdon gives this a 10b, but I didn't think it was any harder than Sunshine Chimney, the p2 squeeze chimney on Rock on or the chimney on Birds of Prey, all 5.8. Lots of ledges and rests, only a few moments of real chimney moves. A fine activity, but nothing noteworthy.

Location

The obvious chimney left of all the rest of the climbing.

Protection

1 bolt and standard rack to a #1 C4. Raw bolt hangers at the top, so the second will want to walk off (climber's left).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Drake
Kent, WA
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Don't let the grade in the book and here scare you off if you're not versed in the wide. This thing is fun, secure and has good options for pro.

This had to be a typo in the guidebook, absolutely no way in hell is this even remotely near that high of a grade. I put this up on a hunt for shade while teaching a basic rock course, all the brand new students climbed it cleanly without any struggle. Even for the bluffs, where grades seem to be exceptionally soft, this is at most a 5.7. I agree that the V slot on rock on was quite a bit harder.

Note there is a flake about 2/3 of the way up out left of the chimney which is quite hollow. I would not place gear here, there is another placement further back in the chimney you can reach from a relaxed stance. Jul 22, 2019
Madelynn Scherrer
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Would agree that it is for sure no harder than 5.8 even if you stay deep in the crack and suck at offwidth like I do. Very fun place to practice techniques for this size crack. (Pro is for a small crack on the inside of the OW, the real climbing is a large arm-bar size.) Oct 3, 2019
gyokuro
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route! It is definitely in the 5.8 range, not 10b. However, the top is quite runout with no pro, so I opted to go left, climb up by a small tree, and make a couple easy slab moves to reach the anchors from there. Jun 19, 2021