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Routes in B. Middle Cliff Routes

Boaty's Birthday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Boys Are Back at Bone, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Compound Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Family Picnic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flippin the bird T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fuck Rumney T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golf Ball Sized Urethra T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mountaineers Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schistorectomy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Traction Splint T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dylan Oliver, Conor mark 7/16
Page Views: 168 total, 11/month
Shared By: Conor Mark on Aug 25, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

The beginning of this route really needs a bolt. Originally, Dylan though this would be a roof crack, but the start pushes you out onto the face. With a bolt and some more cleaning on the upper crack, this would get another star.

Scramble up to a large ledge, get gear in the crack, and follow better holds on the face up to a cruxy lip encounter. Pull around onto the face, much more easily and with fantastic views up the wide crack.

Bolted rappel anchor on the next prominent buttress climber's left brings you back to your packs.

Location

~100 ft. left of Snap, Crackle, Pop, in the prominent alcove.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 camalot. No fixed anchor, belay on top of the cliff from gear.

Photos

Conor Mark
Asheville, NC
 
Conor Mark   Asheville, NC
 
Aug 25, 2016
doliver  
Lets call it Traction Splint. Fitting as a fall from the crux would not be pretty. A more Aesthetic direct start on the face around the corner would be a better way to access the enjoyable wide crack above and should have bolts installed sometime this fall. Aug 25, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
Unnamed?? Really, guys?! Haha. Aug 25, 2016