French (AKA German!) arete
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in Alam Kooh and Takht-e-Soleyman
|French (AKA German!) arete T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft, Grade V|
|Page Views:||176 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||AliS on Aug 24, 2016|
DescriptionThe easiest technical climb on Alam Kooh wall. It constitute of sections of 5.7-5.9 with 4th or easy 5th classes in between.
After getting to Shaneh Kooh Col, continue on the arete. Ater some 4th and easy 5th class climbing you will get to the "do-rekabi" pitch. It is the crux of the route because of the grade and exposure and the fact that it will be the bottle neck on the weekends. Next you will have a short 5.5 pitch to the right of the arete which takes you to the base of the "Se Rekabi" pitch, which has many fixed etriers, but can be free climbed (~5.9). After that you will have a 4th class section which is a good place to pass the slower parties. After a short chimney the original German rout continues straight up and the French's traverse to the right. Most of the people take the French route, but call it German's. The route traverse and then heads up. Mostly easy 5th and some 5.8-5.9 sections. The route also pass the unique feature called Sang-e-samavar. You can climb it using the bolt ladder on its back.