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Routes in Alam Kooh and Takht-e-Soleyman

French (AKA German!) arete T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 176 total, 12/month
Shared By: AliS on Aug 24, 2016
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Description

The easiest technical climb on Alam Kooh wall. It constitute of sections of 5.7-5.9 with 4th or easy 5th classes in between.
After getting to Shaneh Kooh Col, continue on the arete. Ater some 4th and easy 5th class climbing you will get to the "do-rekabi" pitch. It is the crux of the route because of the grade and exposure and the fact that it will be the bottle neck on the weekends. Next you will have a short 5.5 pitch to the right of the arete which takes you to the base of the "Se Rekabi" pitch, which has many fixed etriers, but can be free climbed (~5.9). After that you will have a 4th class section which is a good place to pass the slower parties. After a short chimney the original German rout continues straight up and the French's traverse to the right. Most of the people take the French route, but call it German's. The route traverse and then heads up. Mostly easy 5th and some 5.8-5.9 sections. The route also pass the unique feature called Sang-e-samavar. You can climb it using the bolt ladder on its back.

Location

From the ruined shelter continue toward the Shaneh Kooh Col.

Protection

There are many fixed ropes (some plastic) and wooden/metal etrier. If you want to trust your life with them (which unfortunately many do although many have died because of this) you don't need more than a handful of quick draws. There are many fixed old pitons on the rout and some seem rigid enough but sometimes the fixed ropes pass through them which make them unusable. I suggest 0.4-2 cams and a set of nuts, with 4 alpine draws and 4 long quick draws.

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