Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 638 total · 22/month
Shared By: Ed Henicle on Aug 22, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Deep chimney/offwidth crack on the North Face of the Lamb Dome.

P1 - 4th class with a few chockstone moves 5.6

P2 - Chimney and chockstones 5.7

P3 - Chimney 5.7 - possible escape left to Green Goblin 5.9

P4 - Squeeze 5.7

Location

Prominent crack on the North Face of Lamb. Park on 2nd sandy pull out West of DAFF. Hike uphill for 15-20 min.

Protection

pro to 3", optional #4, knee pads

Photos

Skyline Lau
San Francisco
Skyline Lau   San Francisco
This climb should be renamed to "Fern Gully"
• Didn't rope up on the 1st pitch.
• Can't remember 2nd pitch.
• 3rd pitch was fun. If you have a follower with broader shoulders, might want to go over the outside of the chockstone instead of through the two chockstones that created a small hole. I was able to easily go through it, but not so much for my belayers.
• 4th pitch is pretty much unprotected until the very last section. I end up climbing the slab right outside the crack because my 28" inseam legs would have a hell of a stretch traversing the top. There are a ton of nobs and friction points, however, some pieces on the wall did break on me, so I wasn't quite as comfortable on an unprotected OW. The last section is heady, but fun. It would've been nice to have a #5 or #6 to protect it. While it wasn't terrible if you climb off-widths, it is a very long fall if you do. We did place some small gear in the very few cracks there were.

I don't recall ever placing a #4. A single rack should be fine. Jul 12, 2018