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Routes in Lamb Dome

Chute Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Ten, You Wuss T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ground Effects S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jailbreak Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jog Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lambda, Lambda, Lambda T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lampoon T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Left North Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Sheba Continuation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Little Sheeba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nerve Wrack Point T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
On the Lamb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right North Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Silent Shout S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tectonomagmatic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Pony T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 619 total · 24/month
Shared By: Ed Henicle on Aug 22, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Deep chimney/offwidth crack on the North Face of the Lamb Dome.

P1 - 4th class with a few chockstone moves 5.6

P2 - Chimney and chockstones 5.7

P3 - Chimney 5.7 - possible escape left to Green Goblin 5.9

P4 - Squeeze 5.7

Location

Prominent crack on the North Face of Lamb. Park on 2nd sandy pull out West of DAFF. Hike uphill for 15-20 min.

Protection

pro to 3", optional #4, knee pads

Photos

Skyline Lau
San Francisco
Skyline Lau   San Francisco
This climb should be renamed to "Fern Gully"
• Didn't rope up on the 1st pitch.
• Can't remember 2nd pitch.
• 3rd pitch was fun. If you have a follower with broader shoulders, might want to go over the outside of the chockstone instead of through the two chockstones that created a small hole. I was able to easily go through it, but not so much for my belayers.
• 4th pitch is pretty much unprotected until the very last section. I end up climbing the slab right outside the crack because my 28" inseam legs would have a hell of a stretch traversing the top. There are a ton of nobs and friction points, however, some pieces on the wall did break on me, so I wasn't quite as comfortable on an unprotected OW. The last section is heady, but fun. It would've been nice to have a #5 or #6 to protect it. While it wasn't terrible if you climb off-widths, it is a very long fall if you do. We did place some small gear in the very few cracks there were.

I don't recall ever placing a #4. A single rack should be fine. Jul 12, 2018

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