Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Conor Mark, Dylan Oliver 8/21/16
Page Views: 504 total · 18/month
Shared By: Conor Mark on Aug 21, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

A wild and exposed journey up the obvious seam/crack system. While there are hollow spots, the rock is generally much better than it looks from below.

Begin as for Flippin' the Bird, breaking right into the seam at 20ft. Half way up the seam, move right over two foot ledges. Load up on small gear under the roof (fixed white tricam) then make a wild and committing move around the corner and into the wide, flaring feature. Continue up the crack with good exposure and good feet, making a bouldery move over the "finger" at it's end (crux) to a small alcove. Move straight up to the bolted belay on Flippin' the Bird. Double ropes helpful. 35m.

Location

Around the corner from Family Picnic, 20 feet right of Fuck Rumney.

Protection

Rack many long slings, including two 4ft. slings for under the roof, 0.2-#4 bd (doubles .4-.75), a set of stoppers, and tricams

Photos

Conor Mark
Asheville, NC
  5.10a
Conor Mark   Asheville, NC
  5.10a
On the FA, Dylan flashed the follow in his approach shoes, as he had forgotten his rock shoes. Aug 21, 2016
Dylan Oliver
Longmont CO
 
Dylan Oliver   Longmont CO
 
Wild pitch! Great varied climbing with fantastic exposure better than any of the 5.10's at lower west and on par with the rose as one of the classics of Bolton. So all you lazy Vermont climbers better get your asses out to bone mountain and try some of these sick lines! Aug 22, 2016