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Routes in B. Middle Cliff Routes

Boaty's Birthday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Boys Are Back at Bone, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Compound Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Family Picnic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flippin the bird T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fuck Rumney T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golf Ball Sized Urethra T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mountaineers Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schistorectomy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Traction Splint T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Conor Mark, Dylan Oliver 8/21/16
Page Views: 421 total · 21/month
Shared By: Conor Mark on Aug 21, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

A wild and exposed journey up the obvious seam/crack system. While there are hollow spots, the rock is generally much better than it looks from below.

Begin as for Flippin' the Bird, breaking right into the seam at 20ft. Half way up the seam, move right over two foot ledges. Load up on small gear under the roof (fixed white tricam) then make a wild and committing move around the corner and into the wide, flaring feature. Continue up the crack with good exposure and good feet, making a bouldery move over the "finger" at it's end (crux) to a small alcove. Move straight up to the bolted belay on Flippin' the Bird. Double ropes helpful. 35m.

Location

Around the corner from Family Picnic, 20 feet right of Fuck Rumney.

Protection

Rack many long slings, including two 4ft. slings for under the roof, 0.2-#4 bd (doubles .4-.75), a set of stoppers, and tricams

Photos

Conor Mark
Asheville, NC
 
Conor Mark   Asheville, NC
 
On the FA, Dylan flashed the follow in his approach shoes, as he had forgotten his rock shoes. Aug 21, 2016
doliver
 
doliver  
 
Wild pitch! Great varied climbing with fantastic exposure better than any of the 5.10's at lower west and on par with the rose as one of the classics of Bolton. So all you lazy Vermont climbers better get your asses out to bone mountain and try some of these sick lines! Aug 22, 2016

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