Sport, 600 ft, 7 pitches,
Avg: 3.5 from 54
FA: Mike Carrington, Matt Allenbach, Damien Ternes, Lisa McGloin
> S Platte
> Devil's Head
> Sin City
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure.
Please visit: fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al…
for additional information and maps.
This is the Devil's Head ultra classic. I've been told by others it's the Naked Edge of Devil's Head. This route has it all!
P1. Climb the 3 foot wide chimney with your back against one side and your feet pressing the other side, 5.8.
P2. From the anchors, trend up and left with a short crux soon after the anchors and another crux lay backing higher up the pitch, 5.9.
P3. Climb up an easy slab to the base of the 200 foot tall headwall. Make an awkward mantel to get yourself established below the crux. Traverse slightly left and up for more continuous, amazing climbing to a semi-hanging belay, 5.10+.
P4. Climb up through more crimps, sidepulls, and balancy moves to get to an airy traverse to the right, 5.9.
P5. This is the crux of the route! Powerful, elegant, varied, airy, and continuous! Climb straight up from the anchor on some nice incuts and playbacks. There's a huge block on the left that I wrenched on for hours with a crowbar and couldn't get to come off. The crux is a powerful undercling to a thin crack straight up then strenuous laybacking to get over the bulge. Get a rest for a few moves when you can stand on a little ledge near the white spot. Continue up laybacking to a delicate move up and right. The last crux! Climb up overhanging crimps, and save some juice to make it to the anchors.
P6. Climb up to the ledge, and move right, climbing the slab over a few bulges and ledges to the next set of anchors, 5.5.
P7. Climb up a short wall trending to the left. Climb the arete to the summit, 5.6.
There is a harder variation to this climb that goes right after the first pitch. This is steeper and much more sustained than the original route.
P2 variation. At the first belay, look off to the right for a bolt. This will lead you to the steep headwall. Climb a few stiff moves to get to the first belay, 5.9.
P3 variation. Climb up steep, incut edges, laybacking and balancing up the crimpy handholds. The crux is a very delicate, balance move to stand up and move to the right, sustained 5.10.
P4 variation. Continue up great climbing to a flaring, shallow crack. The crux is moving out of this slot and balancing up the very thin slab, 5.11.
P5 variation. There are three different ways to go on the fifth pitch. The original line (you would have to move your belay to the left to the other anchors). The middle route which is the hardest but is less sustained, layback to get a really desperate cupped hand jam to get over the roof (I don't think anyone else has done this variation, I think it's 5.12). The right variation which you get a undercling to a super long reach to a pinch hold. All three variations share the last overhanging crimping section of the original line and end at the anchors at the top of the fifth pitch.
The climb starts in the obvious, huge, 3 foot wide chimney
The one and only Dave Washburn helping me bolt one of the variation pitches.
The first pitch.
The top of the 5th pitch (11a). Rap straight down from here to the anchors on the route 20 feet climber's right of Revelation Route. Photo credit to Q.
FFA of the the first pitch.
Looking down at the hanging belay atop P3. The P4 crux felt hard for 5.9.
This is one of the engaging sections of P3.
There seems to be pretty big inconsistency between grading here and the guidebook. After climbing this, the guidebook grading seems a bit more realistic.
Matt on the fourth pitch.
Lisa on the fifth pitch.
Matt on the second pitch the day of the FFA.
Lisa making her way up the variation pitch 3.