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Routes in (9) Above the Waves

BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climax T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love You Long Time TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tanz en Den Mai S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tofu Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet and Hairy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dirk & Edgar (2003)
Page Views: 85 total · 5/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Aug 21, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

P1 (5.11): Start up the great features with holds you kinda have to search for. Place gear from what solid stances you can find. Make a few more tricky moves and then enjoy a short easy section to a small ledge. Make a tough pull up to the horizontal with a roof to your left. Scope holds to the left (above the roof) then pull hard through the crux - tough sequence to figure out at first. Scamper up the final few feet on incredible features to a great ledge.

P2 (5.10-): Hop up to the higher ledge then climb the brief dihedral finger crack. Stem out then start climbing the thin broken crack - nuts are handy, for once. At a slight alcove, move straight up or step out left again, then back right. Shake out a solid horizontal before moving up the sweet final locks of the finger crack. It's intuitive to try to mantle onto the ledge, but don't cheat yourself (it's actually quite precarious anyway). Instead, move out right along a thin horizontal then pull on a crimp and some nubbins over the lip up to the tiny anchor ledge. Wild and airy finish!

Location

Last line of old bolts on "Euro Wall". The last ledge before you have to descend to the "Catwalk". Ends at a big ledge left of some dark, vegetated chimneys.

Protection

Gear to 1.5"
Titanium anchors

Photos

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