Type: TR, 90 ft
FA: TR Neil + Ken
Page Views: 64 total · 2/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 20, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Lots of fun moves around difficulty 5.8 in dihedral / "open book".
Unfortunately the starting first couple of moves on the face up from the obvious bottom ledge are much harder.

Go first roughly straight up the face to the bottom of the corner / dihedral, then up that to the top.

Top-Roping trick? If the current climber wishes to keep the difficulty more uniform, that climber (if on Top-Rope getting belayed by a partner above by the top anchor) might consider rappeling (or getting lowered) only to some point on the climb above the obvious bottom ledge.

Aid? If attempting to Lead this pitch, it is unlikely that those first much harder moves can be Aided with trad protection pieces.

Name: At Chamonix Mont Blanc, the Frendo dihedral (open book corner) is between the Aiguille Grepon and the Aiguille du Roc -- as one the upper pitches on a long great route from the Envers side - See this report.

warning: The rock in this area has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.


This inside corner (dihedral) facing right is in the upper left part of the Upper Wall. Not so easy to spot from the ground, even standing well away from the bottom of the Rush main wall - (Try to have someone in your party who's really good at this).

--> Check this Photo <--
. (might help for approximate location and the configuration of more obvious features in that general part of the cliff, but unlikely to pick out this specific feature from this photo).

Then finding this feature while actually climbing / scrambing around up on the actual cliff might also be tricky.

There is a ledge a ways below the bottom of the corner, which seems like a logical place to start climbing -- except that the first moves off the ledge are much harder than any of the climbing above -- so perhaps some parties will want to figure out a way to start higher closer to the bottom of the corner.


No fixed hardware for anchor or intermediate protection as of 2016.

Top-Roping: Can set up natural anchor near ledge above.
Can scramble down from above north (climber's left) to reach top anchor ledge (3rd class, perhaps some 4th class moves).

Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unknown.