Type: Trad, 42 ft (13 m)
FA: Todd Paris, July 2008
Page Views: 499 total · 8/month
Shared By: Nolan H on Aug 20, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

25' to the right of Barrel of Monkeys, look up for a series of small cracks below a fixed anchor (the second anchor set from the left). Start at a series of square-ish holds up to a pair of cruxy thin cracks, then up to horizontal blocks, through some seams to a ledge with a fixed anchor above your head.

An alternative start uses the left-facing corner to the right of this route (the lower half of Buzz), which climbs through the corner to a jug, then up and joining the route as usual (5.6+)

Or climb the smooth face to the right of this route with the use of a horizontal for a 5.10d toprope climb, called "Stinky Pete" (FA Peter Whitmore, April 2009)

Location

The left end of the cliff, 25' to the right of Barrel of Monkeys. Look up for an orange nose sticking out of the cliff and a fixed anchor. The anchor can be accessed by rappelling in from above, it cannot be reached by reaching over the edge as it is with many other routes.

Protection

This route is labeled G in Adirondack Rock, but I looked it over on toprope, and I was glad to not be on lead as some gear placements could difficult to find without using suspect rock. Many blocks on this route are stable, but I wouldn't trust them with a fall.

5/19/2021 - Two loose medium size blocks were removed from this route which will make to gear placements and the climb a bit easier and a softer 5.7 PG.  Another small loose block was unable to be extracted with a crowbar - it doesn't appear to be dangerous but moves and rocks around a little but remains wedged behind adjacent blocks.  

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