Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 42 ft (13 m)|
|FA:||Todd Paris, July 2008|
|Page Views:||499 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Nolan H on Aug 20, 2016 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson|
25' to the right of Barrel of Monkeys, look up for a series of small cracks below a fixed anchor (the second anchor set from the left). Start at a series of square-ish holds up to a pair of cruxy thin cracks, then up to horizontal blocks, through some seams to a ledge with a fixed anchor above your head.
An alternative start uses the left-facing corner to the right of this route (the lower half of Buzz), which climbs through the corner to a jug, then up and joining the route as usual (5.6+)
Or climb the smooth face to the right of this route with the use of a horizontal for a 5.10d toprope climb, called "Stinky Pete" (FA Peter Whitmore, April 2009)
This route is labeled G in Adirondack Rock, but I looked it over on toprope, and I was glad to not be on lead as some gear placements could difficult to find without using suspect rock. Many blocks on this route are stable, but I wouldn't trust them with a fall.
5/19/2021 - Two loose medium size blocks were removed from this route which will make to gear placements and the climb a bit easier and a softer 5.7 PG. Another small loose block was unable to be extracted with a crowbar - it doesn't appear to be dangerous but moves and rocks around a little but remains wedged behind adjacent blocks.