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Routes in Lake Pleasant Quarry

Barrel of Monkeys T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr Potato Head TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mutant Toy TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rex TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sarge T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squeaky Toy Aliens T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 42 ft
FA: Todd Paris, July 2008
Page Views: 48 total, 3/month
Shared By: Nolan Huther on Aug 20, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

25' to the right of Barrel of Monkeys, look up for a series of small cracks below a fixed anchor (the second anchor set from the left). Start at a series of square-ish holds up to a pair of cruxy thin cracks, then up to horizontal blocks, through some seams to a ledge with a fixed anchor above your head.

An alternative start uses the left-facing corner to the right of this route, which climbs through the corner to a jug, then up and joining the route as usual (5.6+)

Or climb the smooth face to the right of this route with the use of a horizontal for a 5.10c toprope climb, called "Stinky Pete" (FA Peter Whitmore, April 2009)

Location

The left end of the cliff, 25' to the right of Barrel of Monkeys. Look up for an orange nose sticking out of the cliff and a fixed anchor. The anchor can be accessed by rappelling in from above, it cannot be reached by reaching over the edge as it is with many other routes.

Protection

This route is labeled G in Adirondack Rock, but I looked it over on toprope, and I was glad to not be on lead as some gear placements could difficult to find without using suspect rock. Many blocks on this route are stable, but I wouldn't trust them with a fall.

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