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Epilithic Wave

V1, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Jesse Hintz?
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Deadman's Gulch > Mental Crux Boulder
Warning Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays DetailsDrop down

Description

Stand-start on the huge shelf/block at the bottom, then use the edge and cracks in the face to climb the lichen-y wave up and right to top out in the corner. It's technically easy, but it's also tall, exposed, and beautiful.

The rock took a little cleaning but is fairly solid. The colorful lichen isn't really an issue for climbing, it just added aesthetics.

A more complete problem could start from the ground instead of the shelf but would be a bit contrived.

DISCLAIMER: I just moved to the area, so am not sure if I'm the first one to climb this route. Please suggest a correction if you have better info. I just didn't see any signs of cleaning or chalk when I climbed it. Also, I'm not much for grading. No promises on the V1 mark.

Location

On the south side of the wave, there's an obvious starter shelf. Stand-start here, and climb the wave using the left edge and the crack system. You could find other routes on this boulder, but this is the obvious one.

Protection

A couple pads and spotters would be nice. If you only have a single pad, I'd put it on the ground on the downhill side of the wave, not on the starter shelf.

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The Epilithic Wave of Mental Crux.  Scary and beautiful!
[Hide Photo] The Epilithic Wave of Mental Crux. Scary and beautiful!