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Epilithic Wave
V1,
Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: Jesse Hintz?
Colorado
> Lyons
> St Vrain Canyons
> S Fork of St Vr…
> Deadman's Gulch
> Mental Crux Boulder
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022. From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Stand-start on the huge shelf/block at the bottom, then use the edge and cracks in the face to climb the lichen-y wave up and right to top out in the corner. It's technically easy, but it's also tall, exposed, and beautiful.
The rock took a little cleaning but is fairly solid. The colorful lichen isn't really an issue for climbing, it just added aesthetics.
A more complete problem could start from the ground instead of the shelf but would be a bit contrived.
DISCLAIMER: I just moved to the area, so am not sure if I'm the first one to climb this route. Please suggest a correction if you have better info. I just didn't see any signs of cleaning or chalk when I climbed it. Also, I'm not much for grading. No promises on the V1 mark.
Location
On the south side of the wave, there's an obvious starter shelf. Stand-start here, and climb the wave using the left edge and the crack system. You could find other routes on this boulder, but this is the obvious one.
Protection
A couple pads and spotters would be nice. If you only have a single pad, I'd put it on the ground on the downhill side of the wave, not on the starter shelf.
[Hide Photo] The Epilithic Wave of Mental Crux. Scary and beautiful!