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Routes in Zuul Stone

Prehistoric Bitch V4 6B
Type: Boulder, 14 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 103 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nick Reecy on Aug 18, 2016
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Prehistoric Bitch climbs a steep overhang on good rock over a poor landing. With some more traffic (I know, I'm being optimistic), I can imagine the rock and landing becoming more desirable.

Sit start deep in the confines below the convergence of the two boulders with hands matched on an irregular jug. From there, place a left heel hook, drop the right shoulder, make the big reach to a sloper (no dabbing the adjacent boulder), match a right hand next to it on a pinch-sloper, slide the heel down the chute into place, stick a big right hand to a good edge, cross over with the left hand to the generous rail, continue traversing right along the rail until a position can be gained that allows for a move to the lip, match on it, and negotiate the mantel to send it.

Location

It climbs the east face overhang of Zuul.

Protection

The landing isn't good on this one, but it pads really nicely. I used a total of three pads, and it worked well.

Photos

Nick Reecy    
 
Hope you enjoy it if you make it there, Brad! Aug 21, 2016
Bradley Mark Edwards
Grand Junction, CO
Bradley Mark Edwards   Grand Junction, CO  
This looks amazing. It's officially on my To Do List. Thanks, as always, for sharing Nick! Aug 20, 2016