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Routes in The Sandcastle

Grunt Work T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: Sam Fearer, Nate Fearer January 2016
Page Views: 269 total · 11/month
Shared By: Sam Fearer on Aug 17, 2016
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

30-35' of squeeze/OW. Enticed?

The crack is bottoming, flared, ever so slightly overhung, and ultimately leads into a pinch point up high that prohibits further vertical shimmy-wiggling, yet is still too wide for a proper fist and too deep for a hand-fist. Rough.

Surpass the crux and pull on a series of awesome pockets to top out.
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Keep in mind that this description is for the crack only. Stemming between the faces produces a much different experience, and feels more like a 5.8/9. Fun and worthwhile as well.

Protection

Protectable with big gear, or easily TR'd. Recessed boulders on either side of the top-out can be slung with webbing (2x 25'). Place a large hex in the crack to prevent rope snag in the event of a fall.

If leading, think #6 and up.

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