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Routes in Central Wall

Corner Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Mariachi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ol' Dirt Dogg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Perdido T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sandinista T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: George Hurley, Jim Nupp, David Giampietro
Page Views: 136 total, 8/month
Shared By: DavidLG on Aug 17, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This fun route starts 50' left of Sandinista and 25' right from Ol' Dirt Dog. Starts on a clean white streak in front of a standing dead tree, friction up to 2 horizontal cracks. Move right to the end of the cracks and up to a right leaning crack, at the end of where the crack stops going right proceed straight up to the large ledge.
(tricky gear placement to protect the move up to the large ledge, can be done with a red tri-cam and a stacked nut in a solution pocket)

Straight back on the large tree ledge proceed up the clean rock to a 2 bolt anchor.

Standard trad rack including tri-cams up to a #2(gold) Camalot

FA: George Hurley, Jim Nupp & David Giampietro August 2016

Location

Mt Molly, Central Wall New Durham, NH

Alternate Approach: This is a very easy and enjoyable approach different from the book and that listed on Mountain Project. Travel 2.4 miles from the intersection of Powder Mill and North Shore Rd (Merrymeeting Rd) to a very small pull out on the left where you can park. Follow the trail (well groomed perhaps old logging road) through the boulders until at a well marked trail on the right with cairns, take this trail. Walk approx. 25 minutes total (Almost to the top of Mt Molly) turn right and up off the trail with a short 100 yard bush whack to the base of the cliff (Central Wall Area).

Protection

Standard single rack up to #2 (Gold Camalot) include tricams pink,red and brown.

Photos

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chinos  
nice guys! I will go try this out soon! Aug 22, 2016