Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski, Mari Gingery (1982) |
Page Views: | 2,195 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Bryan G on Aug 14, 2016 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
As you approach the base of the North Face, this will be the obvious corner just to the right of the first rappel. Lots of people have probably looked at it, but judging from the lichen, no one has climbed it in several years. Rap in to a sloping ledge with a bolted anchor at the base of the corner, then lead back out. You could also set some directionals and mini-traxion it if you wanted.
Starts with some good finger locks, then becomes really shallow and flared. Requires some "laybacking" as the name suggests. Placing pro is tricky, hard to see, and super strenuous. After pulling over onto a ledge, continue up the corner and gully on rock that is carpeted with lichen. Mantel out left at the very end to regain the ledge at the top of the rappels.
I ran a wire brush down the main corner crack, but it still needs a lot of cleaning. Most Bachar FA's have gotten their ratings upgraded in guidebooks over the years. This is one of those obscure routes, like Moongerms, which has had few repeats and still retains the "old-school" rating (5.11b in the Reid Guide). For what it's worth, this is much harder than the Kaukulator, Blind Faith, pitch 4 of N Face, Uprising, and probably even harder than the Alien Roof.
Starts with some good finger locks, then becomes really shallow and flared. Requires some "laybacking" as the name suggests. Placing pro is tricky, hard to see, and super strenuous. After pulling over onto a ledge, continue up the corner and gully on rock that is carpeted with lichen. Mantel out left at the very end to regain the ledge at the top of the rappels.
I ran a wire brush down the main corner crack, but it still needs a lot of cleaning. Most Bachar FA's have gotten their ratings upgraded in guidebooks over the years. This is one of those obscure routes, like Moongerms, which has had few repeats and still retains the "old-school" rating (5.11b in the Reid Guide). For what it's worth, this is much harder than the Kaukulator, Blind Faith, pitch 4 of N Face, Uprising, and probably even harder than the Alien Roof.
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